Dress Codes

[Lon Scot Reg Secretary]

Having read some of the first and last posts on this subject, I'd like to throw in my two pennies worth.

I come from a Scottish regimental background and have attended many formal events in my time with lots of specifically stated dress codes. Basically if a function has a stated dress code, then it is the invited duty to find out what that is and dress appropriately. If you don't have the correct dress, get it or politely decline the invitation.

In the forces it is made simple as we have dress regulations written down. Formal states of dress are varied and worn on a regular basis. No coloured ties or waistcoats, uniformity is the name of the game.

I like to carry this into civilian life, keep it simple. Someone mentioned the Royal Caledonian Ball; here the dress code is clearly stated and adhered to, to the point of expulsion for those who deviate. This is up the top end of the social events and so it sets a standard. Here dress is Highland evening wear, mess kit, or Hunts tails. White tie means White tie, that is 'Hunts tails' and a boiled starched stiff fronted shirt and a single ended white bow tie. There is no kilted version of this; White tie is white tie. Simple.

Black tie is a dinner jacket, black bow tie, white dress shirt, cummerbund or a waistcoat (of a suitable colour). Highly polished or patterned leather shoes. This can be supplemented with trews, which looks very smart and is my preferred version.

Highland eveningwear opens up a wider vista of variations of jackets, shirts, sporrans etc, but is based on Black tie. This is where individualism can be expressed and I've seen many variations, too many to list here.

Traditional Highland day wear is well documented. I feel that the main thing is to judge the events that you are attending or the activity you are doing, dress appropriately, and be comfortable. My only advise to those starting out to negotiating the minefield that is dress codes is, PLEASE don’t wear white kilt socks!

However when wearing the kilt, be proud and remember why you are wearing it!

[Phil]

My only advise to those starting out to negotiating the minefield that is dress codes is, PLEASE don’t wear white kilt socks!

Oh dear - I thought they taught military men NOT to step into obvious minefields!
As to the rest of the advice, well excellent for those aspiring to the dizzy heights of social mobility and with the necessarily deep pockets required. For the rest of us a PC with black bow tie, white hose and polished black shoes must suffice.

[Lon Scot Reg Secretary]

Phil,
Thanks for your comments. Actually they teach us to identify and deal with minefields, obvious or not (I once spent a night clearing a path through a minefield, but that’s another story).
I wasn't saying that everyone should have White Tie, the one time that I had to wear it I rented it. I was just saying that there isn't a highland equivalent. Dress codes come from a bygone era when society was more structured. In my option, wearing highland evening wear is the chance to be an individual and wear what makes you feel good, but dress up rather than down.
The white socks comment was just me being mischievous.

[Phil]

The white socks comment was just me being mischievous.

As was my comment about the minefields. When you have been here as long as I have, however, then you have experienced the discomfort, nay outrage, which develops during discussions about the relative merits of such seemingly innocuous subjects as the colour of kilt-hose or the design of shoes, particularly buckle brogues.
Turning to your other comment -

I wasn't saying that everyone should have White Tie, the one time
that I had to wear it I rented it. I was just saying that there isn't
a highland equivalent.

according to a brochure produced by my tailor this is the highland dress required for Court Levees -



which I had assumed would be equivalent to 'white tie'. I have to bow to his advice as it is not the type of occasion that I have attended, nor am ever likely to. Of course every occasion will have its own dress requirements, dictated by the organisers, just as some golf clubs do and which were the subject of another lengthy and impassioned thread not so long ago. To paraphrase you, if you don't like the rules then politely decline the invitation.

[fluter]

I think I would fit much better in the category of "outsider," but i appreciate the sentiment, thank you.

From Wikipedia:

Outsiders are estimated to be the most advanced species in Known Space, possibly the Galaxy, but the extent of their development remains unknown.

[Lon Scot Reg Secretary]

according to a brochure produced by my tailor this is the highland dress required for Court Levees -



which I had assumed would be equivalent to 'white tie'. I have to bow to his advice as it is not the type of occasion that I have attended, nor am ever likely to. Of course every occasion will have its own dress requirements, dictated by the organisers, just as some golf clubs do and which were the subject of another lengthy and impassioned thread not so long ago. To paraphrase you, if you don't like the rules then politely decline the invitation.[/QUOTE]

Phil
What a marvalous print! Thank you for sharing it and your comments.

I must admitt to admiring this chaps style, and it certainly looks like Highland No.1C Levée Order of dress (to be worn when carrying out duties as an Equerry to Royalty or attending to Court Investitures and Regimental weddings.)
Your comments have got me thinking and I've just spent an interesting 45mins on google looking at some amazing descriptions of court dress from a bygone era. It would be interesting to know if anyone has seen this being worn at a Royal garden party or investiture, or simular function. Of course this has to make me retract my comment about there being no equivilent highland dress to White Tie. Phil, I bow to you and your tailor's greater knowledge, and offer my apologies.

Here's a description from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Court_u...United_Kingdom which I think describes what your two chaps are wearing.

In 1898, a special dress with sword and dirk was allowed for Chiefs and petty Chiefs as a military uniform at court. By 1908, this was extended to Highland gentlemen, and comprised-
· kilt
· sporran
· doublet of cloth or velvet,
· Highland belts
· claymore
· dirk
· long plaid.
By 1912, the qualification was absent, and it was to comprise-
· black silk velvet full dress doublet
· set of silver celtic or crested buttons
· superfine tartan full dress kilt,
· short trews (if desired)
· full dress tartan hose
· full dress-length shoulder plaid
· full dress white hair sporran - silver mounted and tassels
· dirk with knife and fork
· sgian dubh (sock knife)
· patent leather shoulder belt, silver mounted,
· waist belt with silver clasp
· silver mounted shoulder brooch
· silver kilt pin
· lace jabot
· one pair buckles for instep of shoes
· one pair small ankle buckles for shoes
· full dress brogues
· Highland claymore.
· Glengarry or Balmoral, crest or ornament
· Cross belt of leather (or metal mounted) for carrying the sword worn over the right shoulder.
By 1937, the shoulder plaid became shoulder plaid or belted plaid. Dress sporran could be hair, fur, or skin, any pattern. Footwear was dress shoes and brogues. Highland Bonnet, feather or feathers if entitled. Highland pistols and powder horn may be worn.
Dress Doublet- of velvet, cloth or tartan. Waistcoat [if doublet is intended to be worn unbuttoned]- velvet, cloth, tartan; dress kilt; dress hose; plaid either shoulder or belted; shoulder brooch for plaid; dress sporran and strap or chain (sealskin, silver furnished top)- can be hair, fur, skin; Highland basket-hilt sword, black leather or metal mounted scabbard; sgian dubh (sock knife); dirk; kilt pin; jabot, lace (lace, silk, satin or lawn stock); cuffs, lace; Ghillie Brogue shoes (leather uppers, soles and tassels) or Dress shoes (with buckle); Highland Bonnet; belt and buckle (leather and lined); flashes; Highland pistols and powder horn may be worn; gloves are not worn.

I couldn't find an up to date version of this, but I suspect that in this day and age of high security, the thought of sporting a pair of highland pistols would be a talking point! A military collegue of mine from my regiment recently attended a reception for a Scottish charity in the Great Hall at the Houses of Parilment, Westminster, and although the invitation was full Mess Kit, he was asked not to wear his dirk or sgian dubh.

[kc8ufv]

Here is an image that reminded me of this thread. The only problem is that there are no kilts present!

How do we know the guy in the Hawaiian shirt isn't wearing a UK?

[artificer]

I couldn't find an up to date version of this, but I suspect that in this day and age of high security, the thought of sporting a pair of highland pistols would be a talking point! A military collegue of mine from my regiment recently attended a reception for a Scottish charity in the Great Hall at the Houses of Parilment, Westminster, and although the invitation was full Mess Kit, he was asked not to wear his dirk or sgian dubh.

Fantastic info and very educational as to the relatively rapid changes allowed at court. That said, I thought the sgian was allowed under British Law as part of National Dress, or does that not apply to Court situations? (not intending to stir a political debate, just curious as to British legal rulings)

ith:

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

A military collegue of mine from my regiment recently attended a reception for a Scottish charity in the Great Hall at the Houses of Parilment, Westminster, and although the invitation was full Mess Kit, he was asked not to wear his dirk or sgian dubh.

I believe that only the Sergeant of Arms is allowed to bring a sword (or any other weapon) into parliament; all others, including guests, are required to leave them at the door. Presumably this embargo would extend to the Great Hall as well as the Chamber.

[JSFMACLJR]

according to a brochure produced by my tailor this is the highland dress required for Court Levees -



which I had assumed would be equivalent to 'white tie'. I have to bow to his advice as it is not the type of occasion that I have attended, nor am ever likely to. Of course every occasion will have its own dress requirements, dictated by the organisers, just as some golf clubs do and which were the subject of another lengthy and impassioned thread not so long ago. To paraphrase you, if you don't like the rules then politely decline the invitation.

Phil
What a marvalous print! Thank you for sharing it and your comments.

I must admitt to admiring this chaps style, and it certainly looks like Highland No.1C Levée Order of dress (to be worn when carrying out duties as an Equerry to Royalty or attending to Court Investitures and Regimental weddings.)
Your comments have got me thinking and I've just spent an interesting 45mins on google looking at some amazing descriptions of court dress from a bygone era. It would be interesting to know if anyone has seen this being worn at a Royal garden party or investiture, or simular function. Of course this has to make me retract my comment about there being no equivilent highland dress to White Tie. Phil, I bow to you and your tailor's greater knowledge, and offer my apologies.

Here's a description from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Court_u...United_Kingdom which I think describes what your two chaps are wearing.

In 1898, a special dress with sword and dirk was allowed for Chiefs and petty Chiefs as a military uniform at court. By 1908, this was extended to Highland gentlemen, and comprised-
· kilt
· sporran
· doublet of cloth or velvet,
· Highland belts
· claymore
· dirk
· long plaid.
By 1912, the qualification was absent, and it was to comprise-
· black silk velvet full dress doublet
· set of silver celtic or crested buttons
· superfine tartan full dress kilt,
· short trews (if desired)
· full dress tartan hose
· full dress-length shoulder plaid
· full dress white hair sporran - silver mounted and tassels
· dirk with knife and fork
· sgian dubh (sock knife)
· patent leather shoulder belt, silver mounted,
· waist belt with silver clasp
· silver mounted shoulder brooch
· silver kilt pin
· lace jabot
· one pair buckles for instep of shoes
· one pair small ankle buckles for shoes
· full dress brogues
· Highland claymore.
· Glengarry or Balmoral, crest or ornament
· Cross belt of leather (or metal mounted) for carrying the sword worn over the right shoulder.
By 1937, the shoulder plaid became shoulder plaid or belted plaid. Dress sporran could be hair, fur, or skin, any pattern. Footwear was dress shoes and brogues. Highland Bonnet, feather or feathers if entitled. Highland pistols and powder horn may be worn.
Dress Doublet- of velvet, cloth or tartan. Waistcoat [if doublet is intended to be worn unbuttoned]- velvet, cloth, tartan; dress kilt; dress hose; plaid either shoulder or belted; shoulder brooch for plaid; dress sporran and strap or chain (sealskin, silver furnished top)- can be hair, fur, skin; Highland basket-hilt sword, black leather or metal mounted scabbard; sgian dubh (sock knife); dirk; kilt pin; jabot, lace (lace, silk, satin or lawn stock); cuffs, lace; Ghillie Brogue shoes (leather uppers, soles and tassels) or Dress shoes (with buckle); Highland Bonnet; belt and buckle (leather and lined); flashes; Highland pistols and powder horn may be worn; gloves are not worn.

I couldn't find an up to date version of this, but I suspect that in this day and age of high security, the thought of sporting a pair of highland pistols would be a talking point! A military collegue of mine from my regiment recently attended a reception for a Scottish charity in the Great Hall at the Houses of Parilment, Westminster, and although the invitation was full Mess Kit, he was asked not to wear his dirk or sgian dubh.[/QUOTE]

The Lord Chamberlain's Dress Regulations from 1937 still are in effect--IN THEORY. Highland dress as per i937 was worn by quite a number of gentlemen at the Coronation in 1953. My late father attended a number of vice-regal levees in Canada in the 1950s and '60s in levee dress. Court dress was not worn at garden parties, but was worn at investitures. I'm not sure when dress was "relaxed" for investitures. When my great-great grandfather was knighted in 1897 he wore the required velvet court suit, new style. We still own it. Court dress was worn to state balls and banquets. It still is.

PS. Wouldn't equerries be in uniform?