Best, spare-no-expense kilt to be had?

[Tobus]

As a fellow owner of a BT kilt, I agree completely.

I agree as well. Not to say there aren't other great kiltmakers out there (some of whom I have used, many I have not). But you can't go wrong with Barb Tewksbury as your kiltmaker.

[COScotsman]

I would also highly recommend Kathy Lare for quality hand sewn kilts here in the US. She studied at the Keith Kilt School in Keith Scotland, and attain the Scottish Qualifications Authority Award in Traditional Handcraft and Kilt Making Skills. Trained by Master Kilt maker Robert McBain, former kilt maker for the Gordon Highlanders. Her work is impeccable. She has done all but one of my kilts. She is based out of Wichita Falls, TX. Here is her website: https://www.kathylarekiltmaker.com

[Flotineer]

Thanks everyone, this gives me several leads!

[piperalpha]

Yes I can relate! My first 'real' kilt, in 1976, was a band-issue one (my first two kilts were made by my grandmother, who knew nothing about kilt making).

Since that time due to some band-switching I've spent much time in various band kilts.

I should point out that all of these kilts were of the highest quality: traditional hand-sewn full-yardage kilts made from UK-woven heavy-weight 100% wool.



Since your band-issued kilts were probably top-quality handsewn full-yardage wool kilts, I suspect that you wouldn't be satisfied with anything less.

With the fabric, I would go with 16 ounce heavy-weight wool (like most band kilts are made from) due to kilts made from this weight looking good, hanging well, wearing well, and keeping their shape. The pleats will look great for many years as long as you don't mistreat the kilt.

Good kilting cloth of this weight is woven by Marton Mills, Lochcarron, and House of Edgar to name three.

About the yardage, I myself prefer having less than 8 yards. For me the ideal is around 6 or 7 yards. This isn't "casual" kilt territory! The leading kiltmakers from the 1920s and 1930s offered identical-quality kilts in 6, 7, and 8 yards.

The idea that a "real kilt" must have 8 yards is a modern fallacy.

Then there's the maker. There are quite a few very good kilt makers in Scotland and North America and probably elsewhere. Most of them are on FaceBook or other Social Media and/or have websites, and you can see numerous examples of their work.

I would go with a one-person bespoke kiltmaker who specialises in traditional hand-sewn kilts, rather than a big firm who produces hundreds of band kilts or wedding hire kilts. Traditional kilts have hand-sewn pleats and are constructed in the traditional way with cut-out pleats, an internal stabiliser, a reverse pleat, and so forth.

I recently had a kilt made by a woman in Scotland who did a great job for a quite reasonable price.

Due to the rules of this forum I can't promote any specific maker (unless they advertise on this forum).

The amount of yardage needed to make a kilt depends on your waist size and the way the pleats are done. Military style requires less material than pleating to set. Sometimes the tartan has an irregular sett which alters the water the kilt is marked. My mum is making me a new kilt at the moment. I can’t wait to wear it. To me that’s the Kilt in a lifetime. She’s going to make me another one this summer or fall. Whenever locharron has another good sale.

I would recommend getting a traditional hand sewn kilt in 16oz like most have suggested. It will last you for years