New Kilt

[Father Bill]

Just learned that "p a k i" is apparently a bad word that gets censored out.

I also specified that I would wear it on my hips, like I would pants/jeans. I know it's heresy , but they accommodated. The pleats start 6" below the very top of the kilt, where the Pakis kilt starts 8". The Pakis measurements include a fell dimension, which I specified as 6". USAKilts do not accept a fell measurement, but I explained I expected it to be the minimum possible based on my wearing position.

Finally, I ordered with waist and hip the same size, thinking that the minimal fell would allow the pleats to allow for all the space/movement I needed. This may have been a mistake, as there is noticeable tightening when sitting down. I specified hip measurement 2" larger than the waist on the Pakis kilts and they exhibit no such tightness.

The amount of pleating also differs substantially. USAKilts 5 yd wool only has 14" of pleated area, which is barely over 1/3 of the total 36" waist length. The Pakis kilts, OTOH, was pleated 2/3, at 24" of the total. The Pakis shops did not indicate the amount of material used in their kilts.

Is the size of the pleated area the difference between 5, 7 and 8 yard kilts ? Is it expected to only get 1/3 of the total when using 5 yards of material ?

Even though the Pakis kilts start the pleats 2" below the USAKilt, apparently the additional pleated area is what prevents it from binding.

Any thoughts from more experienced kilt buyers would be appreciated.

You continued to use it, but only in the plural form. Instead of flagging you, I posted a warning. I think it's time for this thread to close.

Rule #2

–-We believe in fostering polite discussion. Posts which provoke quarrels, escalate contention, or are hostile or insulting, are subject to removal.

[CBH]

Thanks for your reply Ann.

So the amount of the kilt's overall width (waist size) that should be pleated vs apron should usually be the same regardless of how much material is targeted to be used (e.g. 5 yd vs 8 yd), and the difference would be the size/tightness of the pleats ?

That's what I expected, although I've never see it explained anywhere.

What rough % of the total waist is typically pleated and what % is typically apron ?

I guess its just part of the learning experience. How much of the total size is pleated never occurred to me as a question to be asked.

My mistake for using the same number for both waist and hip, but it still seems impossible to flare the hip section 2" larger in such a small vertical space.

[Pleater]

Thanks for your reply Ann.

So the amount of the kilt's overall width (waist size) that should be pleated vs apron should usually be the same regardless of how much material is targeted to be used (e.g. 5 yd vs 8 yd), and the difference would be the size/tightness of the pleats ?

That's what I expected, although I've never see it explained anywhere.

What rough % of the total waist is typically pleated and what % is typically apron ?

I guess its just part of the learning experience. How much of the total size is pleated never occurred to me as a question to be asked.

My mistake for using the same number for both waist and hip, but it still seems impossible to flare the hip section 2" larger in such a small vertical space.

Just using my moderator powers to reply.

Yes, the appearance of the kilt should be about the same, as far as the maker can manage, no matter what amount of fabric. I notice that the new kilt has the sequence white/white/gold stripes in the pleats - probably the best use of the fabric that could be made. More fabric means more options, such as pleating to the sett, where the set of the tartan seems to be repeated right around the kilt.
The fundamental idea though is that there is a front view - the aprons, and a back view - the pleats, which seems to have been achieved.
I am pretty sure that 2 inches of flare can be done with 14 pleats, even if 'only' 6 inches of vertical seam is available.

Anne the Pleater