The Art of Kiltmaking

[pdcorlis]

Personally, I think there are very few tartans that look all that good pleated to the "block" - the IOS being the most noted exception. The tartans that work do so because the different colors are similar in value making them very subtle. Tartans with greater contrast in value do show the "lawn chair" effect, and any wise clothier will warn you, broad horizontal stripes run the risk of making your butt look like a barn door.

[MacMillans son]

Personally, I think there are very few tartans that look all that good pleated to the "block" - the IOS being the most noted exception. The tartans that work do so because the different colors are similar in value making them very subtle. Tartans with greater contrast in value do show the "lawn chair" effect, and any wise clothier will warn you, broad horizontal stripes run the risk of making your butt look like a barn door.

"Dear does this pleating style make my butt look big?"

"Not at all sweetheart, but those 60 inch hips sure do!!"

[OC Richard]

The fact is that "pleating to the block" is very popular with pipe bands and at certain competitions you'll see the majority of the kilts pleated to the line, most of the remainder pleated to the block, and only a few pleated to the sett.

It's just curious that this rather popular approach isn't mentioned in the book.

[xman]

It's just curious that this rather popular approach isn't mentioned in the book.

At the bottom of page 17 is a picture of a young man wearing Isle of Skye pleated, as you say 'to the block' but is labeled pleated to the stripe. A similar effect is shown again at the bottom of page 24. The technique of block pleating is entirely the same as pleating to the stripe so the only reason to use the term 'block' pleating' is aesthetic. I submit that block pleating is covered under pleating to the stripe.

[The Wizard of BC]

OC Richard,

Sir,
The phrases "Pleated to the Sett" and "Pleated to the Stripe" are two of the most accepted phrases used in Kiltmaking.
Your phrase, "Pleating to the block", seems to be your personal phrase or perhaps the one used in your local circle.
Another phrase commonly used is "Pleating to the Line"

Whichever phrase is used, 'to the stripe', 'to the line', 'to the block', it actually refers to the same thing. i.e. using the same element of the Tartan pattern on each pleat of the kilt.
Because your term "Pleating to the block" is not used in the book is nothing more than semantics.

The book covers this type of pleating very well. It simply uses the most accepted phrase for this method of pleating.

The caution in the book, of pleating where the element used does not contain a prominent vertical line or stripe, is valid. Many Tartans if pleated without a prominent vertical element do indeed give the appearance of "The Dread Lawn Chair Effect". This effect is certainly one that needs to be taken into consideration when choosing how to pleat a kilt. Many people find it less pleasing.

Because some kilts may be pleated this way does not constitute another, separate, method of pleating.

Your "Pleating to the Block' is actually "Pleating to the Stripe". You many use your phrase if you wish, but this thread is about "The Art of Kiltmaking", 'Pleating to the Stripe" is the phrase used there.

[sydnie7]

sometimes also known as 'pleated to the nothing' LOL

[pdcorlis]

Thanks for the gentle nudge Steve. Barb's book is unparalleled. As others have said, everyone interested in kilts should at least read this book. You really can't find a better guide to buying and building an heirloom quality kilt.

[CaseyB]

I just got my copy in the mail today!! What an amazing wealth of information! The attention to detail and depth of explanation are wonderful. I am going to read it through a couple of times before I actually give it a go!

[OC Richard]

Your phrase, "Pleating to the block", seems to be your personal phrase or perhaps the one used in your local circle.

I got the phrase from Iain Sherwood, proprietor of Cuillin Craft. He implies that that phrase was used in the Highland Outfitter/kiltmaking business he worked for in Scotland. You'd have to ask him about his source for that phrase. I don't know the name of the company in Scotland he was employed at.

It's a useful phrase for the method of pleating to an area of the tartan which has no vertical elements at all, that is, to a large vacant area of the sett. When I think of "pleating to the line" I think of each pleat having a prominent vertical line.

In many cases it's not clear, at distance, whether the pleat has no vertical element at all, or merely a very weak vertical element. So sometimes the difference is simply one of visual effect.

Here's an example:



At first glance there's no vertical element in the pleats, but maybe it's pleated to the pairs of rust lines in the purple band.

[davidlpope]

It's a useful phrase for the method of pleating to an area of the tartan which has no vertical elements at all, that is, to a large vacant area of the sett. When I think of "pleating to the line" I think of each pleat having a prominent vertical line.

This "pleating to the block" idea is still "pleating to the line". The only distinction is whether the vertical element that exists in the section of the tartan used for that pleat encompasses the entire width of the pleat or not. In other words, you're still pleating to a line, but the line/stripe is so broad that it is the only design element seen on that portion of the pleat, which I guess leads one to think that there is no vertical element. I appreciate that most kilts pleated to the line are pleated to a narrow line (usually four to eight threads wide) which produces the clear and unique vertical element centered on the pleat that you are alluding to, but this doesn't change the fact that it isn't a separate type of pleating. In my mind it's a distinction without a difference.

As Steve has pointed out below, the key fact that distinguishes the two types of pleating is whether the same design element is replicated on every pleat (pleating to the line) or the pleating replicates the full sett across the back of the pleat (pleating to the sett).

David