Pleat sizing

[Barb T]

Hi guys

I've been away for awhile, and I just want to second the idea that 43 pleats is too many for a kilt. The pleats would have to be itty bitty, and the kilt would wind up not lookiing "kiltish".

I think that pleats look best at about 3/4" to an inch at the hips. A bigger person looks better with pleats closer to an inch, a smaller one with pleats closer to 3/4".

How _many_ pleats that is really depends on how big the person is (the number of pleats doesn't depend on the sett - the pleat _depth_ depends on the sett). Someone with a backside of 18" (hips in the 35-36" range) would have 24 pleats if the pleats were 3/4". Someone with a 24" backside (hips in the 47-48" range) would need 32 pleats if the pleats were 3/4".

Most of the kilts I make have 23-29 pleats (remember that, unless you're pleating to the stripe, you _must_ have an odd number of pleats).


The pleats in the kilt below are a bit over 3/4" at the hips. I can't imagine wanting the pleats any smaller. The pic also shows the taper of each pleat toward the top of the kilt.

Cheers!

Barb

[Barb T]

In my previous message, I said

(remember that, unless you're pleating to the stripe, you _must_ have an odd number of pleats).

Oops, I lied. While it _is_ true that most kilts pleated to the sett have a center back pleat and, therefore, an odd number of pleats, you _can_ pleat a kilt to the sett with an even # of pleats and no center back pleat.

Here's one done that way (no center back pleat and, therefore, an even # of pleats):

Barb

[Miah]

Both impressive kilts pictured, but wow I wish my waist was close to that size.

[Barb T]

Hi Miah

Well, ummm, actually, you probably don't, because that's my daughter in the pic!

Cheers,

Barb

[beerbecue]

Barb - that brown kilt is beautiful!!

I've settled on 33 pleats, but I will measure as I go along and stop when I hit the right measurements.

It sure isn't easy keeping horizontal stripes even, keeping the stripe centered, and tapering pleats all at the same time. I am truly, truly impressed by the professional kiltmakers here, my hats off to you all!!

I will take a photo of my pleats so far (I finished 3 yesterday....) to ask your opinion of how it is going so far. I am using a poly/wool blend, and I guess I am worried about the stitching..... even though this is my first completely homemade kilt, I want to do the best job I can...

thanks for all the help

-Troy

[Barb T]

Hi Troy

Yeh, I think pleating to the stripe is actually harder to do well than pleating to the sett. On the other hand, because you are pleating to the stripe, you _can_ just stop when you get to the right measurements if your pleats aren't quite precise. If you were pleating to the sett, you wouldn't be able to do that.

I'll look forward to seeing the photos!

The brown kilt is Weathered Ferguson.

Cheers,

Barb

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Hey Troy, no matter how you decide to pleat that thing... if you can get the kilt to hang and drape so that the pleats look like Barb's first pictured kilt, you're on the mark. Those pleats look like there's cardboard behind them, holding them perfectly in place!

There are WAY too many kilts out there that wander and pucker improperly. That's a GREAT example of what to gun for. Once you decide how to go, make sure to have a trained professional like Barb help you to get the thing right.

[beerbecue]

I'll be heading to the domicile for lunch, and will post a picture then. Since I haven't sewn that many pleats yet, I don't mind redoing them.... well, not too much anyway.....

[beerbecue]

The pleat pic is up in my gallery now.

Now that I look at it from a less personal perspective, I can see that its not perfect, and any criticism is welcome.

I am really enjoying the learning experience..

[Barb T]

Hi Troy

Looks like you're doing a _dandy_ job matching the stripes! Congratulations!

Now for a major confession. I always use pins about every 2" along the pleat and take them out as I go along. Don't tell Elsie this, because she always raps people's knuckles if you use more than one pin. So, it doesn't say to pin in the book because Elsie is so rabidly against it. But, I do it anyway. I've just found that I can pleat faster and more accurately if I put more pins in than just one at the waist - I find that I take out fewer pleats and that they're more perfect.

If I'm pleating to the stripe (or have a centered element in a pleat), I actually measure at each pin to make sure that the element is exactly centered. I find if I don't do that, the stripe tends to be closer to one side or the other.

Hope that helps!

Barb