kilt hem finish?

[Barb T]

It sounds like you actually have a pretty good kilt. As Paulhenry says, both of the places that the hem is turned up at an angle is part of a well-made trad kilt. If you don't turn it up there, the back layer tends to sag down and show from the front.

Even the best tartan is not absolutely straight along the selvedge edge (the bottom of the kilt). This is not a cut edge - it's where the shuttle reversed direction for the next shot during weaving. If this were a cut edge, it would ravel. A selvedge edge will not ravel because there are no free or loose ends. If one color pulls a little tighter than another, the edge won't be quite straight. But, unless it's a terrible weave, it won't be noticeable when you wear it.

Barb

[Blu (Ontario)]

Don't worry about the little holes along the selvedge. I have 2 Locharron made kilts that have that. If your kilt is like mine, the holes are very small and will be invisible when the kilt is worn. I believe these holes are an artifact from the weaving process as the finished cloth rolls off the loom. By all means, contact the vendor if you're still concerned.

[Hamish]

It sounds to me like a good kilt, Javahaggis. At that price it will almost certainly be hand-sewn rather than machine stitched - and that's definitely a plus point.

If I might be so bold, I'd suggest that your complaints are based not so much on obvious faults in the kiltmaker's craftsmanship, but more on you own lack of understanding of the finer aspects of the hand-made kilt. I intend no offence, believe me, but I fear you might be jumping to conclusions here and it might be as well to do some research before embarrassing yourself.

When you were in the Edinburgh kiltmakers shop, ready to place your order, were there not on display examples of their own work? Did you not ask to see other kilts they had sewn? Did you select your tartan from a swatch of fabric samples? What made you select this particular kiltmaker - his reputation, his prices or was it purely a chance decision?

I have dealt with four major kiltmakers in Edinburgh in the past seven years and between them they have tailored 27 of my kilts, every one of which was absolutely faultless. I would not ask you to publicly name your kiltmaker at this stage, but I should be very interested indeed to know who it was. Perhaps you will send me a Private Message or an E-mail through my "X Marks the Scot" member profile, to give me the details. If nothing else I should be able to give you some idea of your kiltmaker's reputation. I have bought from only four, but I have knowledge of many of the others!!

[Robin]

And....WELCOME!!!!!!

Those small holes are most likely a remnant from the basting threads...they will disappear in time. The more you abuse your kilt...the sooner this will happen....wear it...sit on it...walk in the rain...visit a pub...jump up and down :rolleyes:

....and...post some pictures

[chasem]

I must respectfully request, however, that you not take pictures of the jumping up and down

[flyv65]

I must respectfully request, however, that you not take pictures of the jumping up and down

Indeed: a certain amount of decorum is required from time to time. A co-worker once told that I was responsible for his child's need for psycho-therapy after watching me dive for a Frisbee while kilted at a company picnic. I pointed out that he should rather apologize for the cruel trick genetics would be playing on his son during puberty if he didn't explain how all men "aren't" created equal.

Bryan...he's a good friend: he took my comments well, I think...

[ronstew]

Javahaggis, are you still there? How are you feeling about your kilt now?

[Barb T]

During the weaving process, a web stretcher is used across the cloth to keep the warp from pulling in and distorting the sett at the edges of the fabric when the weft thread turns to go back across the fabric. If you were to throw a shot of weft thread, pull it snug at the turn point so there wouldn't be a little loop, and then beat the thread in, the weft thread would tend to pull the edge of the warp too tight because, in going over and under the warp threads across the web, the thread actually needs to be _longer_ than just the width of the fabric. One way to get around this is to extend the weft thread diagonally up across the shed before beating it in, giving the extra length of the hypotenuse of a triangle. Hand weavers do this all the time. But, even if you're careful, the warp tends to "draw in" on the sides as you weave. So, putting a stretcher on the fabric just behind where the shuttle passes keeps the fabric the correct width. On commercial looms, this happens automatically. On a hand loom, you just keep picking up and moving the stretcher bar as you weave. Hope that's clear...

What holds the fabric to the web stretcher is a series of little pins that leave tiny "holes" in the fabric right at the selvedge (the part that is now along the bottom of your kilt). They aren't really holes in the sense of being broken threads that will ravel and fray but rather little gaps between the threads of the web. These pins are called tenterhooks, and someone referred to them earlier in the post.

Cheers,

Barb

[Javahaggis]

I am feeling much better about my purchase now - Thanks Everyone.

Yes Hamish - it is sheer ignorance on my part, I totally see that, & is partly the reason I entered this forum before I went and said some silly things to the kiltmakers and looked stupid. I put the kilt on with my white shirt, black argyle jacket, and socks last night just to see the fuller effect - it looks great I have to say. and as you have all reasurred me I am happy and should be all set to wear it out to any or all occassion that seems fitting!

Cheers Everyone.
JavaHaggis

[Gordon]

if I may jump in on this one; as a weaver I can give you some further info.
Barb is quite right in all she says and in addition, the cloth is kept taught during the drying process after washing by means of pins on two chain belts (one along each edge of the fabric)

hope that helps, rather than confuses

Gordon