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5th February 07, 01:16 PM
#11
Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC
cacunn,
"measure twice, cut once".
DOH!!
I always get that mixed up!!!
It don't mean a thing, if you aint got that swing!!
'S Rioghal Mo Dhream - a child of the mist
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6th February 07, 05:52 AM
#12
Steve
Thank for the information. When thinking about the design I would envision the drape of the aprons in front. Since I have no hip and a large belly I realized that the drop off from the navel to the hips would have to be taken into account, but did not take this into account when measuring.
I will use your suggestion of hugging a wall when measuring, or as just came to mind (if I have one before a second cup of coffee) I have some poster board. Wrap the poster board around the front and use this to simulate the apron. Make sure that it is hanging straight and measure around the hips. This should give an approximation of the adjusted hip size of a gentleman of dimension.
Now all I have to do is get off my dimensions and start making my first kilt.
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6th February 07, 06:07 AM
#13
Alan H.'s calcs are pretty good. But here are a few places where I would calculate differently:
If the rough split is 24", you'll need 27" just to accommodate the flare from hips to the bottom of the kilt. The deep pleat needs (in my estimation) at least 9" total to provide adequate easement, and the fringe-edge facing is doubled and needs at least 6". So, I add that up and get 42", which is more than a yard. So, I think for a kilt the size of the one Alan H is describing, you really need 2 3/8 to 2.5 yards total for the apron and underapron.
If you are using double-width material, you will lose more than one sett in the join, and commonly as much as 10-12". So, don't forget that when you're figuring how many pleats you can get out of the fabric.
And last, the # of pleats you can get out of tartan is maximized if you are pleating to the stripe. If you are pleating to the sett, each pleat is separated by _more_ than one sett. Depending on the tartan and how you choose the pleats, you're likely to lose one additional sett for every 6 or 7 pleats. So, if you need 23 pleats, you'll need, say, 27 repeats, not 23. So, that could be another 3/4 of a yard, depending on the sett size.
So, that's why it takes me 8 yards to make a full trad kilt for a guy! If you want to use 6 yards, you need to use less material somewhere - either by using narrow facings, a shallow first pleat, a shallow inverted pleat, or wide pleats so that you don't need as many. Or, of course, by picking a tartan with a small sett.
Cheers,
Barb
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7th February 07, 12:58 PM
#14
I'm glad that the first kilt I am going to try to make is not plaid, just solid material.
It is also my plan that my first tartan kilt be a USA kilt. A short road trip and make Rocky do all the hard math/work.
Thanks for all the help.
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