Hemming a Stillwater

[Balaamsass51]

Bravo!

Matt

[Barb T]

In the old days, wool military uniform garments were often constructed with raw (unhemmed) edges. Civil War era frock coats, and regimental coats from earlier periods, almost all have raw edges on the bottom - not a hem, nor a selvedge. The wool is simply hacked off at the desired length and left unfinished.

Some of my reenactment coats have this raw-edged finish. The thing is, the wool holds that edge well, and does not unravel or fringe out, even after years of wear.

Why couldn't one simply cut the Stillwater heavy-weight wool kilt to the desired length and leave the bottom raw edge as is...?

The 19th century wool that I've seen is somewhat felted, which keeps it from raveling. Modern heavy-weight kilting fabric is not felted, and, if you cut it off, it won't be long before you have a fringe at the bottom.

Barb

[Barb T]

One other thing about hemming a kilt. I just posted this to another thread, because someone asked about how to hem a kilt.

The pics that F-H C.A.G. posted are great! The only thing I'd emphasis is that, if you're going to hem a kilt, you shouldn't just turn it up as you would if you were hemming a skirt.

You should first take out both the apron and underapron facing and edge stitching up maybe 8" - enough to lay the hem area out flat before it's turned up. Then, you turn up a hem that is equal everywhere _except_ in the first deep pleat and at the underapron left side. The first deep pleat should be turned up about 1/2" more at the inside point so that the point of the deep pleat doesn't sag and show at the bottom of the kilt. You should also turn up the underapron edge about an inch more at the raw edge tapering to the normal hem length about 9" from the folded apron edge. This keeps the corner of the underapron from sagging below the bottom of the kilt.

Once the hem is turned up and stitched, you can re-sew the apron and underapron facings and edges.

Cheers,

Barb

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

Barb,
Thank you for responding to my silly thread-I hope to start getting more serious about kilt making in the next year, but given my time constraints, it will be a gradual process!

I did notice that the over-apron has a little "dip" to it-so it would have benefited from a slightly higher hem, but the under apron and the deep pleat seem ok. Next time (hopefully there will not be a next time! My liver will not be able to handle it ) I will do as you advise.

Be well,

[Barb T]

I do love your photos, and it is a wonderful thread!

BTW - your cat Smudge looks exactly like the two cats that we have now (pic below) and one cat that we had for 17 years until she passed away last spring. It's an unusual coloring, and I haven't seen many like them. Is your cat a female by any chance?

Cheers,

B

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

It's a little eery how much the one in the back looks like our Smudge! I see quite a few tortoiseshells and they do seem to have that pattern with the face divided in light and dark. They are always female-the patterning of tortoiseshell and calico requires 2 X chromosomes. And, they always seem to live a very long time. I once heard a saying, "the more you complain, the longer you live", which seems to apply to toroiseshells! Anyway, very off subject, but I love to talk about the pets.

Be well,

[Barb T]

Well, cool. I had been under the impression that torties are always female, but I didn't know why. Our long-lived tortie was the most easy-going cat I've ever met - I figured that's why she lived so long. The two in the picture are very personable but are definitely the most athletic and energetic cats we've ever had!

Cheers,

B

[Woodsheal]

The 19th century wool that I've seen is somewhat felted, which keeps it from raveling. Modern heavy-weight kilting fabric is not felted, and, if you cut it off, it won't be long before you have a fringe at the bottom.

Barb

What type of wool is used in the SWK "heavy weights" (I realize they're Pakistani made)? Is it typical kilt fabric: twill-weave worsted? And what weight is it?

[Panache]

What type of wool is used in the SWK "heavy weights" (I realize they're Pakistani made)? Is it typical kilt fabric: twill-weave worsted? And what weight is it?

Woodsheal,

I'd email Jerry over at Stillwater Kilts and ask him. For the best information go to the source!

Cheers

Panache

[David Dalglish]

Great job F-H-C-A-G, the finished kilt looks good.