How fast can I make a "kilt"?

[Alan H]

Ah, the way2fractios Homage Kilt is gonna be:

digicamo material, courtesy of way2fractious and his incredible stash of material! as well as his generous nature

5 yards, knife pleated, full-width apron, sewn-down pleats

I might line it with something hilarious, just 'cause he always lines his kilts, even the canvas knockarounds! I never line my x-Kilts.

OK, what else did I learn? This is worth a thread to itself.

[Packhound]

I've been meaning to ask about this. How do you line a kilt? Do you just line the aprons? Do you pleat the lining?

[way2fractious]

How do you line a kilt? Do you just line the aprons? Do you pleat the lining?

In kilts made traditionally, a liner is necessary to cover up the work done in the area between the hips and waist across the back. Although beautiful to a kiltmaker, to other eyes the cut pleats and stitched-in hair canvas would look awful - and it's scratchy, too! The liner has about a half-dozen pleats to accommodate the tapering of the tartan pleats on the outside.

The liners across the aprons, from hip to waist also, cover and reinforce the strips of hair canvas that keep the tartan from stretching across our tummies.

A traditional kilt is not lined below the hip line. In fact, the liner is hand stitched across the inside back at hip level, then folded up, pleated for the tapering, and hand stitched all around to finish.

When the chance next arises, buy, borrow, or check out of a library the book, The Art of Kiltmaking, which details the procedure.

Some contemporary kilts may be completely lined - for example, a denim kilt lined with flannel. But that's for those (of us ) who like to experiment with new things, too.

[Pleater]

A traditional kilt is not lined below the hip line. In fact, the liner is hand stitched across the inside back at hip level, then folded up, pleated for the tapering, and hand stitched all around to finish.

In sewing terms, the shaping is perhaps more clearly described as having unsewn darts at the waist, as the lower edge is not folded but lies flat along the edge of the fell.

[way2fractious]

In sewing terms, the shaping is perhaps more clearly described as having unsewn darts at the waist, as the lower edge is not folded but lies flat along the edge of the fell.

Thank you, Pleater. You are right about using the term "dart", which is the term Barbara uses in the book. Alas, I am not terribly skilled at sewing generally. Any poor skills I may possess relate only to making kilts, nothing else.

[Packhound]

Sorry, I had a "duh" moment when I posted the question. Somehow I got to thinking about a lining further down. (Kind of like a lady's slip, but sown into the kilt, for lighter fabrics.)

I have a copy of "The Book", and have been studying it. I understand w2f's explanation. Again, I had a "duh" moment and my mind went somewhere else. (Maybe I'll find it someday.) Thanks again for the info and sorry for the hijack.

[way2fractious]

Somehow I got to thinking about a lining further down. (Kind of like a lady's slip, but sown into the kilt, for lighter fabrics.)

You know, I've been trying to figure out how to put in a detachable pink lace slip on an upcoming kilt as a small joke. Hmmm... maybe just baste in some lace ribbon on the inside of the selvedge...

...sorry for the hijack.

Hey, no worries. I'm pretty sure Alan H was done with this thread anyway so, at worst, we only have a side conversation going. (...have to make sure he doesn't *accidentally* drop a caber on me at the next games.)

[Pleater]

I make kilt liners and I pin them into my various kilts with the smallest size safety pins onto the tape which is included at the inside of the waistband.

The waist band is just a narrow strip binding the top of the pleats, not adding anything to the length of the kilt. I sew it to the outside of the kilt, then fold it over to hide the raw edge and then pin it over the tape which is laid on the inside of the kilt and sew it down.

Basically it is a piece of fabric slightly shorter than the kilt with darts to shape it into the waist and long enough to stretch all the way around the inside of the kilt from the edge of the apron to the edge of the under apron - so when worn if the apron flies there are still three more layers of fabric between me and the public, and if the pleats do a flutter there is still a decent almost knee length covering.

I make a small hem, and I would suggest rounding off the corners of the free edges so as to make it continuous on all three free sides.

They are easy enough to make once you know the position length and width of the darts required for the shaping.

If you don't have safety pins it is easy to tack it in place temporarily then remove it for washing.

It should be tested carefully for length, too long and, as it will be closer than the kilt with the weight of the pleats to hold it might result in it catching in the bent knee when stepping over anything - out in rough country on a wet day it will strip the skin off the back of your knees in minutes.

[Packhound]

I make kilt liners and I pin them into my various kilts with the smallest size safety pins onto the tape which is included at the inside of the waistband.

Pleater,

This is what I was picturing. I wondered if anyone did this. My first attempt at making a kilt was with a light, thin fabric. (Just to learn the mechanics.) But with a lining like this I might actually wear it.

W2F,
I knew that when I made my initial question that someone would go where you did. Thanks for not disappointing me. This place is always entertaining.

Rob

[Pleater]

Although putting a liner into a light kilt might save your blushes, I'd recommend that you also sew a tape or ribbon to the inside of the hem - it does make a difference to the stability of the kilt.

If the pleats are already sewn down you don't have to unpick them, just sew the tape to the fabric you can get to.

You could also try a control method used by the makers of military box pleated kilts. A length of elastic is sewn to just the inside of the pleats, about five inches from the lower edge. The elastic is long enough to allow the pleats to swing, but pulls them back into place if they get too unruly.

I have some lightweight fabric which I plan to use doubled, in order to test the method. It will also solve the problem of the material not having a proper 'kilting' selvage.

It will have to wait until I have worked my way through all the alterations I am doing - I just realised earlier today that I have my cotton 'Eight yards of Darkness' kilt taken apart and I need it tomorrow for a folk festival.

I have several kilts I started work on last winter to finish off for the colder months - though the temperature will have to drop before I can face having them on my lap. Perhaps I can fit the lightweight in before then.