Different pleats for camo kilt

[Mipi]

Another question. I assume reverse pleat is needed on left side of apron for reverse Kingussie. What about on right side of under apron?

[Tartan Hiker]

Another question. I assume reverse pleat is needed on left side of apron for reverse Kingussie. What about on right side of under apron?

On the left side of the over apron you don't need a reverse pleat, you just need to make that first pleat a bit deeper than the others (assuming that the other knife pleats aren't also really deep. 4 inches depth should suffice. No more than 5, especially if the fabric is heavy.

Likewise, the pleat edges are already facing the corect way at the right edge of the under apron, so just make the first one a bit deeper than the others.

Having all the pleats facing rearward really simplifies the construction process.

Another way to increase the amount of fabric at these critical points is to make two pleats and lay one on top of the other somewhat. That way you get the effect of having one really deep pleat for freedom of movement without causing the fabric to "sag" down below the hemline, which can happen with a pleat that is 6 or more inches deep. They also don't get tangled up as frequently as really deep pleats tend to.

[Pleater]

I make all the pleats pointing the same way, with the ones next to the aprons extra deep. No reverse pleats.

This might not be all that relevant if you are not climbing over styles, ascending steep gradients, vaulting gates etc. I'd estimate that the apron pleats are usually 7 to 8 inches deep. I do not shorten it at the bottom but raise the top edge into the waistband. (I tend to use up all the fabric, so during my shrinking phases some kilts have larger or smaller pleats which are adjusted in the next reduction, and should eventually result in perfectly even pleating.)

It might be the flare of my child bearing hips, but if I keep the top edge level with the aprons, the large pleats roll open, so the edges of apron/under apron - which are sewn, do not fold flat along the seam and the first small pleat is also distorted.

I lift the inner fold of the large pleats beneath the aprons to pull the fabric back inside the pleat - I usually do it by trying on with the pleats held with safety pins as the exact amount of lift varies, I think it depends on exactly where on the curve the edges of the aprons fall. When I have lost weight I sometimes need to redo that lift.

The fold for shaping the edges of the aprons has an inner edge which drops below the level of the rest of the waistline - I tend to sew on the waistband so it just encloses that lowered edge. I shape the aprons 2 inches, so that takes 4 inches of fabric each side at the waistline.

If I lift one foot up to knee level with the edge of the apron on top of my thigh the pleat under the aprons and the first two small pleats allow for all that movement. The rest of the pleats still fall dead straight.

[Mipi]

Hmm, rather complicated for me, Pleater. I'll read this couple of times to understand more clearly. This pleat I'll do the last anyhow and I assume I'll see what's the best to do.

Regards to all!

[Tartan Hiker]

I'd like to see a diagram or photo of this, too.

[Pleater]

Try a spot of origami.

Take a sheet of paper, fold in half making a sharp crease.

Imagine that that fold is the edge of the apron. It needs to be shaped so decide which short edge is the waist, and create a dart in about half of the folded edge.

Now the lower half of the paper is unchanged, the edge of the top half has four layers of paper as a \l/ shape has been folded inside. The waistline is now narrower than the hemline.

Look at the top edge of the \l/. See how it drops down below the level of the waist?

If you now increase the length of the dart so it goes right to the edge of the paper, down the whole of the fold, the amount of drop at the waist is less.

If you take hold of the inner part of the dart and pull it up level with the waistling the paper will (perhaps with a bit of help) form two equal folds. That is what would happen with a stiff material if you tried to put in edge shaping and have the waist edge all in line. The shaping would tend to form a small pleat rather than a shaped edge.

Pull the top of the \l/ up higher and the angle between the folds and the edges alters so the hemline is now narrower than the waistline, that is how you can pull a pleat which tends to roll outwards back into line. Because the cloth is softer than paper and wrapped around a body in 3 dimensions the drape and shape can cause some pleats to hang of line and require pulling back into place.

I hope that makes things a little clearer.

[Mipi]

Last evneng I got couple of minutes and try to see what you ment Pleater. I think I'm starting to see what are you talking.

Thanks!