Dying Leather Boots

[DWFII]

When you dye the grainside...or from the grainside...the dye soaks in, but the depth to which it soaks in is limited by the density of the fibers in the corium.

When you dye from the rough side (the fleshside) there is effectively no barrier. Thus fleshside soaks up a lot more dye...some of which never "takes" but remains as a loose pigment. Depending on the residual oil or fat content, some of that may migrate back to the surface. If that surface is next to your leg it will stain your leg.

I might add that most dyes...good dyes...are solvent based--usually some variation on alcohol--and very liquid. Solid dyes, if such there be, require some sort of solvent as a carrier and may very well be more prone to leave loose pigment stuffs. What dyes are in shoe polishes and shoe creams are minimal, have no carrier to speak of and don't really dye the leather in any manner that meets the definition of dyeing.

Yes some dyes are better than others. The best are aniline dyes made especially for leather and probably only available through specialty manufacturers of chemicals and waxes who deal exclusively with the footwear industry..

Lincoln and Fiebings are two...sort of aniline...dyes that are available to crafters and hobbyists...in many colours. And good products. Solvent based.

Some dyes, however are water based and any dye that is water soluble is sweat soluble.

[James MacMillan]

OK - Now we are getting some real information! But -

Is there a recommended way to seal the rough side, to prevent the rub-off effect or bleeding?

Would you wash the dyed leather with soap and water after the dye process?

[DWFII]

This is going to be long....for which I apologize...but I started with short answers and as more information was requested expanded on my remarks. I hope I am not responsible for eyes glazing over or anyone falling into an unexpected and early afternoon nap.

I don't know of any way to seal the leather short of applying some sort of lacquer or dressing that will matte the flesh down. What is more, most of those types of dressings are water soluble, so perspiration will simply dissolve and eliminate them.

There may be no good solution in the hobbyist or semi-professional context. Certainly on an industrial level something is done...between controlling the amount of dyestuff that is applied, to eliminating excess dyestuff, and/or sealing...which can produce a leather on which the fleshside colour is "fast."

That said, if you examine bridle leather that is already dyed by the finish contractor, you see that the amount of dye penetration on the fleshside is minimal...and very, very even. Again this is evidence of a carefully controlled attempt to restrict the amount of dye applied and, as a result, the amount of residue, if any.

Parenthetically, I might note, however, that most Scottish made leather kilt belts for instance, seem to be "lined" or backed with another piece (sometimes red) on which a "finished" (paint job) grainside is placed next to the kilt. My assumption would be that this is a deliberate attempt to eliminate all possibility that dyestuff will migrate to the kilt.

I have a black bridle leather kilt belt that I am making. The bridle leather had to be split to a suitable thickness. I am still pondering what the best solution is because I do not want to dye it...even with the aniline dye. I may line it, or I may dye it with a "iron black" dye...but this type of dye only works in a chemical reaction with vegetable tanned leathers. Most footwear, including moccasins and renn fair "boots" are chrome tans and will not take the iron black.

It probably goes without saying that it would be a dern shame to ruin my new 10 yard, 16 ounce Jura tank by ignoring these possiblities...because you can guarantee that the dye will not come out of the wool once it is in there.

As for soap and water...try it, it may work. But in general leatherworkers (and shoemakers) are very chary about wetting leather especially in the presence of detergents or lye based soap.

Two comments, on this, however: First, almost all soaps are tallow or fat based. Fats and oils tend to float residual dyestuffs and you may end up with more bleed-off than if you had left it alone...even after everything has dried. Second, water and soaps tend to dry leather out by floating out vat-liquors and other residual oils. Not only will that, again, float excess dye but it leaves the leather parched and as a consequence whenever a boot or shoe gets wet, for instance, it is always wise to recondition it. The upshot? more oils and fats to float more dyestuff.

Finally, I might note that as I said previously there is dye and then there is dye. I get a premium grade of aniline dye from an industrial manufacturer of dyestuff. It seems permanent even when applied in random quantities. If it gets on your fingers, you live with it until the skin sheds it. On the other hand I have used commercially finished leathers that, at the first sign of moisture--water or conditioner--bleed like a stick pig. You learn to test every piece.

There is no good answer for roughout leather esp. if it is a split. If it has a grainside that is turned to the inside of the shoe/boot, the whole equation changes and many of these concerns go by the way.

[James MacMillan]

Thank you sir - Great response!