Judgement Call

**Barb T** · 7th December 08, 08:06 AM

I agree with Matt, particularly if you are a detail-oriented person. It's actually easier to work on wool tartan than it is to work on cheap fabric. And the heavier wool tartans (14-16 oz) are actually easier to work with than the lighter ones (10-11 oz).

And, as many people have pointed out many times, with the exception of cutting out the pleats in the fell, there's nothing you can't take out and do over again at any point. So, if you do something that doesn't meet your standards, you can re-do it.

I've taught kiltmaking to many people who have never sewed before, and the ones who are perfectionists make really, really nice first kilts.

One of the things you could consider to keep the cost down is to make a 4-yard box pleated kilt for your first one. It would only take 2 yards of double width fabric, and it has a lot fewer pleats to sew.

Matt and I are *almost* done with the box pleat kilt supplement to The Art of Kiltmaking, and we should be able to post it some time this week. But you will need the original book in addition to the supplement (which will be free).

**Howard Clark** · 7th December 08, 07:01 PM

I tried with inexpensive materials, and made over a dozen, though they are all machine sewn.

I think it is better to use good materials. Wool is easier to work with, cotton is difficult.

I stopped making kilts. Instead I get them from those who do it well, and make what I can make well, to pay for them.

The book is a good investment, and I am looking forward to the box pleat supplement, even though I may never try to make another kilt.

**Mac Ghille Sheathanaich** · 9th December 08, 07:33 AM

Not entirely on topic but..............

Leaving a little blood in a kilt as one stitches has, I don't know............
Some kind of morbidly satisfying Celtic Neo-Pagan significance to me.

Fide et Fortitudine, aye!

T.

**sydnie7** · 9th December 08, 08:25 AM

Originally Posted by Mac Ghille Sheathanaich

Not entirely on topic but..............

Leaving a little blood in a kilt as one stitches has, I don't know............
Some kind of morbidly satisfying Celtic Neo-Pagan significance to me.

Fide et Fortitudine, aye!

T.

Needles are much like knives in that regard. Once unsheathed, must draw blood before resheathing! Even if it's just a token droplet. . .

**Smayniac** · 9th December 08, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by sydnie7

Needles are much like knives in that regard. Once unsheathed, must draw blood before resheathing! Even if it's just a token droplet. . .

I always say it's not really a show until I bleed.

Bob

**The Wizard of BC** · 9th December 08, 06:37 PM

I'm going to echo Matt and Barb's comments. And then I'm going to say it again and again till everyone gets sick of me saying it.

Always buy the absolute best fabric you can afford. If your'e ever planning on making a Traditional Style Kilt start with the best Wool Tartan fabric you can find.
Working with good quality Wool is like night and day to working with some other fabric. Kilt Wool steams into shapes that are impossible with anything else. Kilt Wool will have a Kilt Selvedge. You'll thank us if you have to try to hem your first Kilt. And Good Quality Kilt Wool will hold a pressed pleat for years. Through washings, through sitting in the car for hours, through all the abuse of a normal life.

And here's another secret.
As your sewing a Good Kilt with Good Wool, if you make a mistake simply rip out that line of stitches. In fact right up to the time you cut away the inside of the pleats you can rip it all out and your right back where you started, with a long rectangle.

If your going to make only Contemporary Style Kilts then the same holds true but in spades. Get a REALLY good fabric for your Kilts.
The difference in a good, high quality fabric and a WalMart special is only a few dollars. 4yards @ $4.00/yd = $16.00 4yards @ $11.00/yard = $44.00. The difference is only $28.00.
But boy, the difference in the final product is well worth the money.
Contemporary Kiltmakers need to be even more particular than Traditional Kiltmakers when it comes to high quality fabrics.

So no matter what style or type Kilt you wish to make, in the end you will be far more satisfied with the Kilt you will wear if you use the best quality fabrics.

**Pleater** · 13th December 08, 01:27 PM

My Christmas present to myself is to sew the quality worsted Modern Morrison and Ancient Armstrong tartans I have had sitting waiting for the time to do it properly.

I can't remember ever getting blood on the fabric - in fact I can't recall ever stabbing myself deep enough to bleed when sewing - perhaps swift reactions or greater sensitivity than the average have saved my skin.

Anne the Pleater

**WClarkB** · 23rd February 09, 03:01 PM

Conclusion:
I appreciate the input and it prompted me to go fabric shopping. Much to my amazement at an upholstery fabric shop I chanced across a bolt of 16 oz wool twill plaid (rather generic, madder red and black) for about 6$ the yard.
The selvedge is poor and so I will have to hem it, the sett is 4.5" and thus I have cut down from 8 to 7 yrds. It has a nice hand but I think a bit soft.

Nevertheless for about 60USD in material and supplies I can see if my skills are up to snuff before I purchase the "real" stuff for about 240USD. Barb's book is now generously supplied with margin notes and I have started to sew the pleats. When I get further along I will send a pic.

**Pleater** · 23rd February 09, 04:21 PM

Do you have any spray starch, for ironing?

A genereous application to the back of the fabric (it will leave white flakes that you don't want on the right side) and some tedious ironing will possibly pay dividends in stiffening up the fabric. Be sure the iron is set to 'wool' temperature.

That was a lucky find, I hope it behaves well for you.

Anne the Pleater

**WClarkB** · 24th February 09, 08:20 PM

Originally Posted by Pleater

Do you have any spray starch, for ironing?

A genereous application to the back of the fabric (it will leave white flakes that you don't want on the right side) and some tedious ironing will possibly pay dividends in stiffening up the fabric. Be sure the iron is set to 'wool' temperature.

That was a lucky find, I hope it behaves well for you.

Anne the Pleater

That is the first mention I have seen for using starch. Of course, I was recently introduced to the concept of a pressing ham (pressed ham and I have had an acquaintance for some time now) so my naivete is well and truly established in these here environs.
:fewl: