What model sewing machines do you guys use.

[fluter]

Singer 8280, very basic with mechanical insides: $90 from Target.

It's pretty easy to use, a good feature since I had last touched a sewing machine 40 years prior. This machine did well for an X-kilt in cotton twill. I did the final waistband seam by hand as I would not want to try to top-stitch accurately with that many layers of cloth!

So far, all my tartan work is manual. I will happily leave machine pleating of tartan for the professionals!

[Alan H]

Got my mothers old black Singer. NOTHING does straight stitch like this machine, I've make kilts, sails, sail covers, you name it with this machine.

Today I splurged 'cause Joan has finally had it with me using her nice Husquevarna for specialty jobs. I snooped Craigslist and spotted a Brother 880 for $30. It's the same model I got for Dirka Skene (who used to post on this board, but doesn't any more). I liked the one I got for her, and I'm sure I'll like this one....it does zig-zag!

[Mipi]

Not being a professional, I must say that for sewing from time to time, almost any machine will do. My mother-in-law used to be a seamstress, so I’ll speak more from her experiences.

She used to work on Singer in the past, staring from very old driven by legs and down to newest ones. Last Singer model she had was broken most of the time, while it couldn’t cope with professional demands. So, it ended in our hands. Even we used it not really often, wife put it aside and bought new Brother. Nothing special, but it does it’s work good. Mother-in-law bought Pfaff with overlock function and it works fantastic.

My ½ cent.

[a Grant]

I am a professional seamstress and have ALWAYS used Bernina sewing machines. My main reason is that the schools in Canada used them because they needed far less repair and were not as fussy as some when one mixes threads used -- a different type on the bobbin than on the top.

[Tartan Hiker]

I gotta brag on my new machine!

I borrowed a Singer "Commercial" (Model CG-550) from the craft center in Montreat. The manager claimed that it was a real drafthorse.

She was right. I knocked out the pleats and the waistband on a new poly/cotton 6-yd knife pleat last night. Stitching through 8 layers of fabric (more when adding the belt loops) hardly slowed it down a bit. I finished the whole operation in about 3 hours. With my "home model" Singer, it would have easily taken twice that long, mostly due to replacing broken needles, rethreading, and hand-stitching the belt loops because it just couldn't handle that much fabric. Wow, I'm so pumped I think I'll start another one tonight.

The "Commercial" Singer has a stainless steel base, and a large gray motor housing. It may be an available option for those in the market for a machine and who don't want to lay out big bucks. There are several on eBay right now for just under $300 USD.

Here's a link for a photo and details:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DN

[Smayniac]

I've used the company's industrial Singer to sew belt loops on Scooby's denim kilt and for some of the stitching on the body of my badger mask sporran. For day to day work, I prefer my old, black Singer home machine.

Bob

[vmac3205]

I use an old Pfaff 1220 and a new Singer, to take the stress off the old Pfaff.

[Dixiecat]

The needle's the thing...big ball point needles are the way to go (see your other thread).

I'm very sorry to have to disagree with you, but this is soooo the wrong advice. Please don't follow this.

Ball point needles were made to be used with KNITS, not wovens. You will find that you are punching through the threads probably damaging the fabric. You'd find that the fabric will wear away faster at the seam because of this.

Match your needles to the type of the the fabric and make sure that they're in good condition. Which means if you run over pins you should change your needle every project or sooner if your needle starts to pull threads as it sews. If you're the type to take pins out before you sew over them, your needle will last a lot longer.

Size of the needle matters as well. Bigger needles for thicker fabrics. If you've ever tried hemming jeans with a size 9 (75) needle, it'll snap every time. Use a size 16 (100) Universal or Denim needle.

If you're sewing canvas for kilts with pleats. You would do best to use a size 16 (100) or 18 (110) size needle either Universal or Denim type.

Also, if you use a Singer sewing machine, only use Singer needles. If you don't use a Singer sewing machine NEVER use Singer sewing needles. There is a difference in length of the Singer needles by a couple of mm. The difference can actually make a difference with the timing of the needle passing by the bobbin to pick up the bobbin thread and may cause skipped stitches or in worse cases, damage to the bobbin.

I use Schmetz needles. Always a quality needle and if you wait when they're on sale at Fabricville, FabricLand or Joannes you can get a good deal.

[hospitaller]

I am using my wife's mother's old Husqvarna machine, early 1980s and still sewing like a champ.

Metal body and sturdy enough to deal with leather and 3 layers of wool.

They sure don't make them now like they used to.

[SteveB]

I have four machines:
1.) Favourite - Ancient commercial Singer. Motor mounts on the ceiling, to reverse, figure eight the belt. Probably could sew planks of wood. I have used it through four layers of heavy leather, without even a hint of effort.
2.) White Jeans Machine. Nice small machine that sews well through six or seven layers of denim, canvas, or almost anything else. has button hole, zig-zag and a few other bells and whistles.
3.) Fairly modern Singer home machine. About 1985 or so. has many bells and whistles, a bunch of cams and assorted gadgets. Used mostly for light weight projects as it doesn't like more than three layers of fabric.
4.) My hands with needle and thread. Reserved for wool tartan kilts.
Slainte