Cap Badges: Button shank backs

[macwilkin]

YEP !

?????? was it because of the "crest' or the "TRIANGULAR" form off mounting ( an ABORTION DREAMED UP BY, IMHO, A "DESK JOCKEY" (this is not the term I want to use, but being a family friendly forum ?),

Puffer

If I remember correctly, back in the 1960's, the British Army tried to adopt the brigade system, a la the US Army -- as a result, the various Scottish regiments were "forced" to wear the brigade badge -- in this case the aforesaid "crucified moose" -- instead of their regimental one.

T.

[turpin]

Just hope no one accidentally whacks you on the badge and drives those shanks into your head! It's leave a mark.

[Bugbear]

I have used a bent safetypin to hold the loop shank buttons on my jackets so the buttons can be removed and changed easily. It is not great for buttons because the pin can fold the fabric a little, and also show. It might work out for a cap badge though...

I'm trying to come up with a different design of safetypin for the buttons that does not require the tiny buttonhole, and also does not cause the fabric to fold.

I've also heard of split rings rather than cotter pins being used with that kind of shank on removable buttons.

[Bugbear]

Thanks, Puffer. I don't like the idea of putting holes in fabric for things like this, and I would think the hole would probably need to be stitched to keep it from un raveling.

I have been looking into using a thin wire, like an high E guitar string, that is bent into a "U" shape. The wire should be thin enough to pass through the fabric, I'm thinking of buttons on a jacket, without harm to the fabric.

The wire is then crimped together on the inside. You would have to use new wire with each change of item, but it would not require any holes. I'm guessing that thicker wire could be used on a bonnet, but the ends of the wire need to not be jagged in any way to go through the fabric well.

[kiltimabar]

Thanks, Puffer. I don't like the idea of putting holes in fabric for things like this, and I would think the hole would probably need to be stitched to keep it from un raveling.

I have been looking into using a thin wire, like an high E guitar string, that is bent into a "U" shape. The wire should be thin enough to pass through the fabric, I'm thinking of buttons on a jacket, without harm to the fabric...
.

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

[Bugbear]

I have used paper clips cut into a U shape (filed to a point on the ends to get through the fabic cleanly). Works well for shank buttons, but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

Thanks, kiltimabar. I am working with buttons, so it would be a lot different. That gives me a direction to go in, though.

[puffer]

but with these badges the shank is fairly long so it might be a bit floppy unless some sort of flash, rosette or backing can fill up that distance, or if the shank can be flattened a little..

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

[Bugbear]

You are correct. As to the "floppiness (sans "backing") I use a Cotter key ( IMHO you need the inflexibility, wire is too flexable for "larger badges) )externally, to "join" the shanks. I then use 1-3 safety pins internally to "stabilize" it.

Puffer

Interesting. I think I understand now.

[shagger999uk]

Most British capbadges now use a 'prong' rather than the loops. The loop back type badges tend to be the Scots and Officer versions of capbadges used in the No1 and No 2 dress hats (Officers berets have either a cloth or wire capbadge).

[thescot]

Like many of the rest, I am hesitant to poke a bunch of holes in my bonnets, tams, or what have you. I have a couple of badges which are actually poked through the material, but mostly I have used the cockade as a means of mounting. I poke the holes in the cockade or just pin the badge to the outside of the cockade to avoid poking any holes at all.

Puffer gives you the right idea, and I have used almost all of his methods. A stitch of thread passed around the badge into the bonnet will hold it tight to the bonnet so that it appears to be properly mounted.