Traditional Kilt Jacket Backs?

[Bugbear]

Thanks, JSFMACLJR. I might look up trachten.

I can understand how a kilt jacket could work without vents; especially since many of them are worn open. Pleating in the back could also do away with the need for open vents.

[KFCarter]

Okay, I'll probably use some incorrect terms here, but...

The gentle folds on either side of the back of the trachten seem to follow similar lines to some sewn-in "darts" (?) on either side of the back of my PC. The small "belt" on the back of the trachten seems to tailor the back, giving it a more "fitted" effect without sewing that effect into the garment the way it appears to be done on a PC. To me, it's a nice, relaxed look, without being a formless sack.

I'm wondering if there are examples of this kind of approach in Highland attire (of any period).

[Bugbear]

Okay, I'll probably use some incorrect terms here, but...

The gentle folds on either side of the back of the trachten seem to follow similar lines to some sewn-in "darts" (?) on either side of the back of my PC. The small "belt" on the back of the trachten seems to tailor the back, giving it a more "fitted" effect without sewing that effect into the garment the way it appears to be done on a PC. To me, it's a nice, relaxed look, without being a formless sack.

I'm wondering if there are examples of this kind of approach in Highland attire (of any period).

I think dart is the correct term for the folds that are sewn down and taper to nothing.

We are on the same wave length, KFCarter. I was going to ask if there are any kilt jackets with the belt on the back. I know a lot of historical styled jackets do have a belt, at least on the back, so I wonder...

I'll go ahead and ask then.

Are there any kilt jackets with a belt around the waist line? I think one of the doublets has a belt, but...

[Bugbear]

KFCarter, I might start a fresh thread with the question about the belted jackets in Highland attire.


For what it's worth, this evening, I pressed the jacket I have been working on. There's some things that could have come out a little better on it, but it was just an experiment. At some point I might work on the cutaway curves a little more. I'll start working on the hem of the waistcoat; had to press that in.

The jacket is dark, dark coffee brown, almost a black color, and has a matching waistcoat. Perhaps before too long I will be able to get some pictures.

[KFCarter]

KFCarter, I might start a fresh thread with the question about the belted jackets in Highland attire.


For what it's worth, this evening, I pressed the jacket I have been working on. There's some things that could have come out a little better on it, but it was just an experiment. At some point I might work on the cutaway curves a little more. I'll start working on the hem of the waistcoat; had to press that in.

The jacket is dark, dark coffee brown, almost a black color, and has a matching waistcoat. Perhaps before too long I will be able to get some pictures.

I'll definitely look forward to the pictures. It would be great to document the process as you go, if that's possible.

I've done some digging, unsuccessful so far, for pictures of a kilt jacket with a belted back. The idea of it has really got me thinking. Living in Savannah, one has to deal every year with a long stretch of hot, humid subtropical weather which roughly coincides with our Hurricane season, June through September or so. Over the years there have been many of the typical adaptations of men's business wear... linen, seersucker and khaki cotton poplin jackets and suits are the norm.

The kilt itself is a great adaption to my mind. I've worn my 16 oz. 8 yd. kilt on some of our early, steamy days already and it's been quite comfortable, even with the heavy wool. The "breeze" factor makes it a great choice. But traditional kilt jackets are going to be a problem for that time of year, and not just because of their material. Their closer, form fitting cut keeps you in "contact" with the material much more than the typical men's jackets. It's something I actually like about them. But for summer, achieving a tailored look while leaving the jacket more leeway to move and air to flow will be important. It's what I thought of when I saw that trachten jacket and why I think something with a back like that might be the way to go when I try to build a summer business wardrobe based on the kilt. But I do want to keep my kilt attire at least in "shouting distance" from the traditions of Highland Attire. For me, that has nothing to do with "kilt police" (whoever they are) but rather my own desire to connect with those traditions, and my ancestral connection to them, via the kilt.

Don't know if we need a separate "belted-back" thread, but I do think the back of these jackets is where the action is, so to speak, when determining how they function.

Keep up the work on that jacket; can't wait to see it.

[Bugbear]

I understand what you're saying. Over hear in the Phoenix area it gets too hot in the summer for most of the kilt jackets, or really any kind of jacket. On the other hand, it almost helps to have something with sleeves just to keep the direct sun off.

You know... The back of the jacket I'm working on could be held in it's shape, for the most part, with a belt.

It basically just has a fold down each side, and is sewn down in the waist area. if there were a belt and some kind of keeper loops at those points, it would probably work.

It reminds me of a bird's tail.

Anyway, I started sewing on the hems of the waistcoat this evening. The jacket is mostly finnished, but I need to go over it and look for any thread tails etc. I'll keep working on it.

[KFCarter]

It reminds me of a bird's tail.

That's a good image; you're right and I've had that thought sometimes looking at doublets, too. Very interested to see pics when you can.

[Bugbear]

I'm still working on it.

I guess you could do some interesting things, like but a downward curve at the bottom of that bird tail shape. It seems like I've seen jackets that have that. I just made this jacket with a streight him on the bottom of the flap, and it's about an half inch longer than the rest of the jacket. All kinds of possibilities.

[KFCarter]

I'm still working on it.

I guess you could do some interesting things, like but a downward curve at the bottom of that bird tail shape. It seems like I've seen jackets that have that. I just made this jacket with a streight him on the bottom of the flap, and it's about an half inch longer than the rest of the jacket. All kinds of possibilities.

I had an interesting conversation with a men's clothier I patronize in town. He has a couple of young employees who are fashion design graduates of the local art college and they all were quite intrigued at the idea of creating summer weight kilt jackets that would be a contemporary take with solid historical roots. Of course everyone's busy and the conversation will develop slowly, but I'm very interested to keep pulling on this thread (pun intended).

I wish I had the ability to attempt the "making" but I don't share your talent for that aspect... I'd sew a thumb or two into a hem for sure.

I've been really intrigued by some of the photos that Puffer has posted, as well, of some of his excellent jackets and waistcoats. I've got a sense of direction developing, but still not enough info... or maybe better to say too much info and not enough sense of direction, actually. But I'm not in a rush. I do like that bird tail reference for the flap...

[Bugbear]

Oops, I see I spelled "hem" as "him."

I have a feeling that careful selection of internal interfacing, like lots of hair canvas, and the right lining would help a lot with the jackets for hot weather.

Someone was talking about having a linen kilt jacket made for hot weather; that might be an idea.