Fabric Question

**The Wizard of BC** · 29th April 09, 04:23 PM

The Wool Tartan fabric produced by the big mills in Scotland use what is known as "Worsted" Wool. This means that the individual fibers are combed and stretched until they are all parallel. Then the yarns are twisted.
This results in a very tight, smooth surface to the fabric. There are no little pokey bits sticking out to itch. The resulting fabric should have a hard, smooth feel to it. You should be able to see and feel each and every yarn and find where the yarns cross in the weave.
The Fabric itself is woven in what is known as a Twill Weave. This type of weaving results in distinctive diagonal line in the Tartan Pattern.

In most Tartan fabrics, if you have it layed out on your table with the bottom or selvedge edge towards you, the Twill lines will run from your bottom right to the top left.

This photo show three different selvedge edges on Tartan fabric. All of them are of the outside or right side of the fabric.

In the X Marks Tartan fabric on the lower left side you will see what we call a tucked selvedge. If you feel this tucked edge you will feel that the fabric is slightly thicker here than in the rest of the fabric. There will also be a small line of fuzz where the individual yarns are cut off. This line of fuzz should be on the bottom side of the fabric.

BUT NOT ALWAYS!!! Some looms weave fabric by tucking the selvedge down and some tuck it up. It all depends on the loom.

But notice that the surface of the fabric itself is not fuzzy at all.

If the fabric you have is, or has a fuzzy surface you do not have Worsted Wool. You have some less or less expensive fabric.

A fuzzy surface is usually a dead give-away that the fabric you have is made somewhere other than Scotland, England, or N. America.

Please also remember this rule of Twill direction only applies to Wool Tartan fabric. Cotton Twill, Poly/Cotton Twill and other fabrics may have Twill weaves just the opposite. One is called Left-Hand Twill and one Right-hand Twill.

**jgcunningham** · 29th April 09, 04:44 PM

Thanks again. I'm going to be pleating rather than watching Obama's press conference.

Jimbo

**Carolina Kiltman** · 29th April 09, 06:22 PM

You almost certainly have Acrylic. Pure polyester twill has a hard finish on both sides. It also may also be a blend with something else too. In any case, you will want the "hard" side out. In addition, there are numerous sites which go into the inner construction of the kilt. Barb's book is the gold standard, but the other sites can be helpful too.

From your description, it seems that the excess fabric has not been cut from the pleats. In any case, good luck with the transformation

**Kiltman** · 29th April 09, 06:35 PM

Not all tartan fabrics go in the direction Steve suggest, but most of them do. I have kilts made in Scotland that go the opposite way. I'm still puzzled by your description of the pleats. Some photos would help.

**jgcunningham** · 29th April 09, 09:09 PM

It was pleated in such a manner that it only took 2 yards to make the kilt. The pleats were very shallow and there was no attempt to follow the sett, even after I told and showed the seamstress what I wanted. So I took my pocketknife to it last week and rendered it down to its parts. I still had all of the remainder of the fabric in my closet. I just cut it all to the same length as my original kilt and then did the math from my measurements. I should have about a foot left over. I just got done folding and ironing in more than half of my pleats. An easy trick I discovered is to use a quarter, which is almost an inch across, to guage the spacing of the pleats. Tomorrow I'll sew them down and then join on the remainder to finish the last few pleats and the front apron. I want to go to the Renaissance Faire this weekend but either the rain or not finishing it will keep me away.

Jimbo

**JolyStNicholas** · 30th April 09, 04:38 AM

Sounds like you have everything under control. This board is full of excellent info. and knowledge!

**lethearen** · 30th April 09, 12:53 PM

Originally Posted by jgcunningham

It was pleated in such a manner that it only took 2 yards to make the kilt. The pleats were very shallow and there was no attempt to follow the sett, even after I told and showed the seamstress what I wanted. So I took my pocketknife to it last week and rendered it down to its parts. I still had all of the remainder of the fabric in my closet. I just cut it all to the same length as my original kilt and then did the math from my measurements. I should have about a foot left over. I just got done folding and ironing in more than half of my pleats. An easy trick I discovered is to use a quarter, which is almost an inch across, to guage the spacing of the pleats. Tomorrow I'll sew them down and then join on the remainder to finish the last few pleats and the front apron. I want to go to the Renaissance Faire this weekend but either the rain or not finishing it will keep me away.

Jimbo

Coming down to Scarby? I want to go at least once more this season, but between the weather and weddings I won't be able to until Memorial Day

Good luck on making it down there!

**jgcunningham** · 2nd May 09, 05:37 AM

Yeah, I won't be able to get down until the last weekend. Too much rain this weekend and then busy the next two, including sitting through a 2 hour college commencement. Thank goodness for my iPhone or I would go mad during those. At least I can surf the web or play some games on it while the speaker drones on.

Jimbo