Medieval bagpipes

[EagleJCS]

Following on what wvpiper siad, I would suggest also investigating a wood other than ABW (African Blackwood) or rosewood. From what I've read, the use of the darker woods for pipes didn't really take off until the turn of the 20th century.

Perhaps walnut, cherry, or oak? Any good furniture-grade wood would probably work. You'd want something that's relatively stable when cut in short (18 inch) sections. You'd need to discuss with an instrument maker to be sure.

[Kiltedfirepiper]

for a good maker of "historical" pipes go here. http://www.sackpfeifenmacher.de/fisc...od.htm?&kat=12
(beware: its all in German so unless you can read German its a little difficult to get around, however it is possible....after all ...I figured it out)

also here is the "produkte" page with a list of all the different pipes they make (along with other things)
http://www.sackpfeifenmacher.de/fischer/prod.htm
there is a band called Wolgemut (vol-guh-moot)that plays pipes from this maker
http://www.wolgemut.net/index.html
I'm hoping to get a set someday soon but I gotta come up with the 1500 first

[HarborSpringsPiper]

That's a cool link. Those are regulation Pied Piper of Hamelin sticks!

[Nighthawk]

Thanks for the advice, folks. I was leanin' towards the kitchen pipes, anyway.

[wvpiper]

Following on what wvpiper siad, I would suggest also investigating a wood other than ABW (African Blackwood) or rosewood. From what I've read, the use of the darker woods for pipes didn't really take off until the turn of the 20th century.

Perhaps walnut, cherry, or oak? Any good furniture-grade wood would probably work. You'd want something that's relatively stable when cut in short (18 inch) sections. You'd need to discuss with an instrument maker to be sure.

Many older pipes were made from cocuswood, or Ebony. I think. That said, I would ask the maker what they would recommend. I would steer clear of material used on old pipes. There's a reason why it's not used any longer.

[auld argonian]

I was saving this one but....since this is Xmarks...

Look around the internet for maple pool cue blanks. I've considered trying to knock up a set of smallpipes myself and my research into materials led me to custom pool cue making supplies and the hard rock maple dowels that they sell as blanks. One would assume that these would be dimensionally stable.

Stability is a good thing in any material used for any instrument. Certain cuts of wood work better for certain applications and the aging/moisture content is important.

Now I need a few power tools...a small lathe being the foremost.

Best

AA

[HarborSpringsPiper]

Northern Maple is what John Walsh uses for the shuttle pipes. Calvin Pemberton, right here in my neighborhood is one of the principal suppliers of Maple to McDermott cues.

I never thought about it but your idea is excellent. Not that I have the time, tools or talent for this undertaking!

I've read before why these other woods besides ABW fell out of favor for the GHB but don't recall why they fall short in that instrument but are still a good choice with other pipes. I'm too lazy right now to go searching. Anybody?

[Highlander31]

If I remember correctly, Robert (Ancienne Alliance) plays a set of pipes that are reminiscent of the medieval pipes.

[Mr. Woolery]

Nighthawk-

Is it important to you to be totally historically accurate or will a very-historical-looking-but-modern-playing instrument satisfy your needs?

In either case, the Dunbar poly pipes are not what you want. There's no way the plastic looks historical. I own a set and they work fine for loaner pipes (my student is using them until her MacLellan pipes are done), but I find them heavy and starkly plasticky. Not a bad sound, but I do think my blackwood pipes sound richer.

If you want to play GHB pipes that don't look modern, there are a couple of things you can do to get a more historical look. First is to get plain-turned pipes. The beading and combing of modern pipes just looks so modern that it is hard to suspend disbelief and think of them as an ancient instrument. Several makers offer plain-turned pipes. I'm partial to Soutar, myself, as my mom has a set of his plain-turned pipes and they are beautiful. However, they still are blackwood and look rather modern. The second thing you can do is to use only one tenor drone. Many early illustrations of the bagpipe show only one drone (a bass, usually) and plenty show two, but very few show paired tenors. If any. In this case, you would buy the pipes as sticks and stocks and use a bag you can tie in yourself. This isn't hard to do, so don't be afraid. Alternatively, if the retailer gives good service, you can specify only two stocks tied in. Keep the other tenor drone in case you ever want to use it or in case something happens to your main drone, but there's no real need for it if you want that historical look. The third thing you can do is look for alternative woods. MacLellan and Gibson both use Mopane wood for some models and it has a more medium brown look to it. I'm not endorsing any particular maker or retailer, but here's a look at the Gibsons:
http://www.ethnicsounds.com/Bagpipes...?ProductID=141

Now, with those pipes tied into a leather bag, no bag cover, only one tenor drone, I'd totally go for that as a medieval instrument. It has a nice organic look, it has a great sound (Gibson makes a very fine bagpipe) and it won't be like everything else that you see on the shoulder of other pipers. However, it will still play in tune with others so if you have a chance to jam, you can. And it fingers just like the practice chanter you've spent 18 months learning to finger. That's a real plus.

Many people seem to get Kitchen Pipes or other small pipes as a transitional instrument, hoping it will make playing the big pipes easier. My experience and that of my teacher is that it doesn't help. Those are a great way to have fun making music with actual drones, once you learn to blow and squeeze them you will be able to play a lot longer than with the practice chanter, and they do look cute. But if you want to play the big pipes, these seldom really help people to move past the big hurdle of keeping the GHB going. There may be some who find it helpful, but I spent three years on the Shuttle Pipes before I make the transition and they didn't help me any at all. And I'm not alone in this. Fair warning.

Of course, if you have decided you want a truly medieval bagpipe, check with someone like Goodacre. But be prepared to relearn a lot. And your instructor may be less help than you would hope with such an endeavor. The difference would be like the difference between a kilt and a sarong. Either works great, but they are totally different unbifurcated garments. A true medieval bagpipe may have totally different tuning and fingering than a modern one. The bag shape may even be different. Look at Durer's bagpiper picture for a more medieval bag shape. Great for leaning up on a tree, not so much for marching, which is what modern GHB bags are designed for.

-Patrick

[HarborSpringsPiper]

Nighthawk-

Is it important to you to be totally historically accurate or will a very-historical-looking-but-modern-playing instrument satisfy your needs?


-Patrick

Good post!