Looking for a pair of brogues...

[davidlpope]

One thing to consider is the type of materials the shoe is actually made of and how well they will hold up. Many middle-grade dress shoes (I think most of the Florsheim shoes fall into this category) use a type of leather (corrected grain leather) that has a "plasticky" surface coating applied. Better shoes use either calf leather or even horse-hide cordovan, although cordovan is pretty pricey. These higher end shoes have all leather linings and better mid-sole construction. As a result, they hold up better over time and can be resoled and reconditioned, instead of having to buy new shoes every 2-3 years. HRH Prince Charles has a great pair of John Lobb (a very, very high end shoemaker) cap-toes that are ancient, though still proudly worn:




As the old adage goes, "I'm not wealthy enough to buy cheap stuff."

Cordially,

David

[Zardoz]

Tobus, I was watching my wife shop for shoes at JC Penny yesterday, and they had Florsheim Lexington Wing-tips on sale for 80 bucks. I was looking at them because my standard dressy or formal shoes are some high-end Florsheim plain-toe oxfords I've owned for about 20 years, and still look good. Assuming they are made as well, I'll wholeheartedly recommend you look at Florsheim.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

All of my dress shoes are by Johnson & Murphy, and all of them are approaching 25 years of wear. Admittedly these were not inexpensive when purchased, but given the wear factor they have cost less than replacing less expensive shoes every couple of years. One thing I would suggest if you purchase shoes with leather soles it that you have "rain soles" applied over the leather. This does three things: (1) it prevents slipping on wet or damp pavement; (2) it protects the bottom of the shoe from the wet; (3) as the rubber rain sole wears it is easily removed and replaced, thus increasing the life of the shoe. Likewise, keep a sharp eye on the wear at the heel, and when the rubber insert is half worn, replace it.

Finally, whatever shoes you buy, keep them well polished, always put in wooden shoe trees the moment you take them off, and slip them into shoe bags when you put them away to keep them from getting dusty. (Dust is abrasive, will get into the stitching, and over time will cause the stitching to fail.)

[Good Egg]

The shoes look OK but ruined by the laces they look just awful. Compare them to the ones below.

[Tobus]

The shoes look OK but ruined by the laces they look just awful. Compare them to the ones below.

The bottom pic... isn't that just how they do the laces for display? They can't actually be worn like that, can they?

That may be a real dumb question from a country hick, but I can't figure out how the heck a person would tie their shoes if it's laced like the bottom picture. It makes no sense to me.

MoR, that's a good point... I need to invest in a good set of shoe trees.

[JSFMACLJR]

Tobus, that's how I lace my shoes. It is a much more prevalent style in the UK.

http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/straightbarlacing.htm

[rsvpiper]

The bottom pic... isn't that just how they do the laces for display? They can't actually be worn like that, can they?

That may be a real dumb question from a country hick, but I can't figure out how the heck a person would tie their shoes if it's laced like the bottom picture. It makes no sense to me.

MoR, that's a good point... I need to invest in a good set of shoe trees.

Top way is civiy street the bottom is military. I always do my shoes/boots the bottom way.... now thats sound and reads strange

[Good Egg]

The bottom pic... isn't that just how they do the laces for display? They can't actually be worn like that, can they?

That may be a real dumb question from a country hick, but I can't figure out how the heck a person would tie their shoes if it's laced like the bottom picture. It makes no sense to me.

MoR, that's a good point... I need to invest in a good set of shoe trees.

Its often said that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask so in case you are being serious:

[thescot]

Its often said that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask so in case you are being serious:

Courtmount's method is the one I used to use. There are two reasons:
1. Looks
2. Having a narrow foot, it allows one to tighten the laces and hold them tight.

I might point out that I prefer the blucher oxford style because it is easier to make snug on my very narrow foot.

Another thought as to what shoe to buy: I advise most men to try to purchase shell cordovan if possible. The leather--which comes off a horse's rump--will not crack, and it just won't hardly wear out. It is the finest leather for shoes you can have, and if you follow MoR's advice as to care, the shoes will last just about the rest of your life.

Here is a very nice offering from Alden. It is a classic perforated captoe, but unfrotunately they don't seem to make it long enough for me:
http://www.theshoemart.com/cgi-bin/c...SHELL_CORDOVAN

Here is a very nice brogue, blucher oxford wing tip:
http://www.theshoemart.com/cgi-bin/c...SHELL_CORDOVAN

[xman]

The problem with this form of lacing is that when you pull them tight one side of the leather gets pulled up while the other gets pulled down. The outward appearance is fine, but the inward pass is substandard. Instead, lace straight across and up skipping the next eyelet, then out and across again. Cover the omitted eyelets with the lace on the other side of the shoe. This will pull both sides directly together and even be easier to loosen.