kiltwearing advice from 1936

[creagdhubh]

I know it would be a great undertaking but I think it would be bennificial to many here on the forum if scans of these catalogs could be made and put in maybe a special reference section of the forum and made available to download. I know that I have obtained some from the internet that are very helpful.

Good idea, perhaps you should formally ask OCRichard?

[creagdhubh]

Just a gentle bit of ribbing, Kyle!

Oh, BTW, the avatar shows my tartan doublet, too!

I know my friend. Where did you have the tartan doublet made? I know that a company out of Argyllshire, 'Highland Clans' makes similar items, yet I question there quality.

www.highlandclans.co.uk

[O'Callaghan]

Yet this modern style differs even from the Highland Dress of thirty years ago, just as ordinary dress has altered during a similar period, and it reflects the changing tastes and practical conditions of the twentieth century, just as occurred in each of the preceeding ages through which it has developed.

No doubt a hypothetical Scottish sci-fi writer of 1936 would have had us all in silver foil kilts in the 21st century, LOL!

[fluter]

I know my friend. Where did you have the tartan doublet made? I know that a company out of Argyllshire, 'Highland Clans' makes similar items, yet I question there quality.

www.highlandclans.co.uk

<chortle> Methinks we've seen the "Appin doublet" elsewhere, Kyle!

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I also try to keep my evening wear as simplistic and unobtrusive as possible.

Oh dear... how, er... sad.

[OC Richard]

Here's the section:

Highland Dress In The Evening

The Kilt.
Many clan and family tartans have a hunting and a dress version- the latter generally much brighter in colouring than the former. The kilt is made in the same way for evening as for day wear, but the material is generally lighter in weight. The lighter qualities of the popular hard tartan are very suitable, especially with the beautiful tones of the vegetable colourings, but Saxony tartans are sometimes used. The latter have the disadvantage that they require much more frequent pressing then hard tartans and are not recommended. For particulars as to which tartans may be worn see under Day Dress.

Coat and Waistcoat.
The style of coat chosen requires most careful consideration. It depends on the figure of the wearer, the purposes for which the coat is required, and other considerations.
The Coatee is specially suitable for a young man or an older man of slim figure. It is definitely less suitable for the stouter figure. A neat close-fitting coat, it is generally made in black cloth with silk facings or in green cloth, and is suitable to wear at dances, dinners, and other functions. The Waistcoat may be of cloth to match the coat, tartan to match the kilt, scarlet, or other colour. (A Prince Charlie is shown.)
The Doublet is less popular than it once was, but is suitable particulary for older men. (A Regulation Doublet is shown.)
To get over the objection of the rather heavy skirts we have designed a modifeid doublet known as the Kenmore Doublet. This makes a neat and shapely coat, and has proved immensely popular since its introduction. It lends itself to variations of style and material. (A Kenmore Doublet is shown.)

Sporrans.
The sporran is usually made of sealskin or other fur with top and fittings silver or plated. Long horsehair sporrans are now seldom used. Leather sporrans are not used with evening dress.

Stockings.
These are knitted to match the tartan of the kilt, or diced stockings of different colours are correct. Plain or castellated tops and samples of less usual styles are available for inspection.

Garters and Flashes.
As well as the usual red and green, we keep a range of special colours to match or contrast with the vegetable colourings.

Shoes.
Patent brogues, either lacing or buckling, as illustrated, are most usual, but plain patent court shoes with buckles are sometimes used. (Three styles of shoes are shown, lowcut loafers with nonfuctional buckles, Ghillies with buckles, and Mary Jane style with buckles.)

Skean Dhu (sic).
A skean dhu of evening pattern is correctly worn in the stocking.

Dirk Belt.
The use of a dirk belt- in many cases worn without a dirk- makes an attractive finish to many styles of coats. The dirk is seldom seen except in Levee Dress.

Neckwear.
A wing collar or a lace jabot must be worn at all evening dress functions. If a wing collar is worn, a white or black bow tie must be used with it. Certain authorities maintain that a white tie should never be used, but the more generally accepted view is that the tie may be black or white at the discretion of the wearer. If a lace jabot be worn it takes the place of the collar, and the lace ruffles may be worn at the wrists. The ruffles are, however, seldom used except in Levee Dress.

Plaid.
The belted Plaid may be worn at any evening dess funcion. It can easily be discarded when dancing. The Plaid is held in postion at the shoulder by a silk cord or other means, fastened to the shoulder strap button and secured with a shoulder brooch.

Headwear.
The Balmoral type of Bonnet is generally the most becoming, and can be worn with or with a metal badge on the rosette. The black Hanoverian, the white Jacobite, and the blue Scottish rosettes are all used. Certain clans, however, wear the Glengarry.

NB Note that there is no reference to a "kilt belt" or "waistbelt" but rather to a "dirk belt". The belt was not associated with the kilt (as a trouser belt is with trousers), but rather something worn outside the jacket or waistcoat to support a dirk.

[Lyle1]

I enjoyed reading the catalog. I think that the 1930's were a fascinating time, and period advertising often provides insights that history books and news accounts do not. I think it is interesting to see what merchants, particularly upscale merchants, were trying to sell, and how they pitched their advertisements to move their merchandise.

[thescot]

I think that if one were to follow the advice here, one would be well dressed and quite unremarkable in the 21st century. (Unremarkable = "not funny looking or tacky")

I feel really old when I realize the this was over 70 years ago.

[CMcG]

What is "Levee Dress?" Several references were made to it but they went over my head...

[JSFMACLJR]

Levees were/are gatherings of gentlemen held by the Monarch or his depute. Gentlemen would be presented to the Monarch at such occasions (similar to ladies being presented at Court--court being the Royal Court, and not a court of law).

There were/are strict regulations regarding dress to be worn at HM's Courts and Levees ( and State Balls and Dinners etc.) The last regulations, published by the Lord Chamberlain in 1937, stipulate the following for Highland Court Dress:

Dress DOUBLET (not necessarily buttoned) of velvet, cloth (any dark
colour) or tartan.
WAISTCOAT (if Doublet not worn buttoned up) of velvet, cloth (any
colour) or tartan - cut high.
Dress KILT.
Dress HOSE.
PLAID (either "Shoulder" - worn long round body and over left
shoulder, or "Belted" - worn on left shoulder and round waist).
SHOULDER BROOCH for Plaid.
Dress SPORRAN, any pattern, of hair, fur, or skin.
Dress SPORRAN STRAP or CHAIN, any pattern.
Highland basket hilted SWORD, black leather (or metal mounted)
Scabbard.
CROSS BELT of leather (or metal mounted) for carrying the sword worn
over right shoulder.
Dress DIRK.
WAIST BELT of leather (or metal mounted) with buckle, for carrying
Dirk. (This is optional, as Dirk can be carried on belt worn under
Waistcoat or Doublet).
Dress "SKEAN DHU" worn in hose.
PIN for apron of kilt.
JABOT, lace (lace, silk, satin or lawn stock).
CUFFS, lace.
Dress SHOES (with buckle), or brogues, black leather, for evening
wear, buckle optional.
HIGHLAND BONNET - crest or badge worn in it - with Feather or
Feathers for those entitled to them.
Note.-Highland Pistols and Powder Horn may be worn.
Gloves are not worn.