"Hard" tartan

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Is "hard tartan" something the mills are starting to do as a stock option or is this something specifically for custom weaves?

Like the teasle raised finish, it's an option for the custom weaves only.

The great majority of people will want the tartan for their kilt woven and finished as standard. The "hard tartan" option, and the softer, teasle raised option, would be for that minority of people who want a little something different, either a crisp, hard hand, or a softer hand to their cloth.

[Ryan Ross]

One would think, but alas, no, same cost, I am afraid.

Aww rats...

Eh, it was worth checking into. Besides, I'm certain the cloth is well worth every penny paid for it; in fact, whenever I have to have tartan custom woven next, I may well go for one of these special finishes.

If I don't opt for tartan tweed, that is.

[Paul Henry]

Matt: That is very interesting. Thank you for sharing it with us.

Don't the finishers ordinarily remove knots (tangles?), bumps, and other weaving imperfections during the process? If so, are those left on the hard cloth? Also if so, are any of those on the hard cloth you just received?

The finishers are often a different company who wash or dress and finish the cloth, but they don't normally sort out the knots and threads.
All that sort of attention to detail is done in house at the weaving mill, many weavers outsource the finishing part of the process.

[Orvis]

Matt - I concur with you about the uniquely satisfying feel of the "hard" tartan produced by Dalgliesh (sp?). I believe a weaver's term for this unfinished straight-off-the-loom cloth is "in the grease." It feels great - I don't notice any scratchiness on my skin, and the cloth does a good job of resisting wrinkling on the pleats (from sitting in a car for extended periods). I have a four-yard box-pleat kilt from you in "hard" Old Culloden tartan and, while it may not have the swish others describe, it feels "right" - a traditional kilt in a historically-correct cloth. Most tartan was of the "hard" variety until the mid-19th c. Working with Figheadair, I got some reproduced pre-1745 tartans in plant-dye colors and the "hard" finish for reenacting, and they are very hard-wearing and hardy for rough use. Today's off-the-loom unfinished cloth is about as close as we're going to come to genuine "hard" tartan the way it was made back in the day, i.e., combing the long fibers of wool, spinning them into a very tight "hard" worsted cloth, dyeing it, and weaving it. Figheadair told me that if all the old-time steps were followed to produce "hard" tartan, it would be prohibitively expensive - hundreds of dollars per yard. Nevertheless, I recommend today's "hard" tartan option for modern kilts.

[mookien]

The finishers are often a different company who wash or dress and finish the cloth, but they don't normally sort out the knots and threads.
All that sort of attention to detail is done in house at the weaving mill, many weavers outsource the finishing part of the process.

Paul: Thanks. Obviously, I didn't know where the dividing line was between what the mill does and what the finishers do.

What you describe makes sense. The more noticeable/undesirable imperfections are removed before the finishers get involved.

[Orvis]

Whoops! Typos are noticed just after the message has been put "out there!"

Where it says "spinning them into a very tight "hard" worsted cloth" I meant to say "spinning them into a very tight "hard" worsted yarns"

[TheBrus]

Thanks for the interesting presentation. I learned a lot. Is hard tartan what older regimental kilts are made from? I know that they're made from very heavy cloth, but I also noticed that the texture is different. I wasn't sure what accounted for that.

[mookien]

Thanks for the interesting presentation. I learned a lot. Is hard tartan what older regimental kilts are made from? I know that they're made from very heavy cloth, but I also noticed that the texture is different. I wasn't sure what accounted for that.

Good question.

Also, The House of Edgar offers a half dozen "Regimental Tartans" that have more "texture" than other tartans. Are those "less finished" in the same sense, but perhaps to a lesser extent, than the "hard tartan" cloth?

[NeightRG]

It's funny - the distance shot seems to show the difference more than the closeup. Almost looks like canvas.
Does it have more of a scratchy feel, like Harris Tweed? If so, I'm sold.

[Nick the DSM]

And the big question is- Is it less expensive?

Because when you think about it, it really should be.

Kinda like when a car company releases a car that is lighter due to having less stuff...but costs more than the other...