Let's talk about ghillie brogues again: the Highland perspective

[Downunder Kilt]

Or maybe its because its about 5.30 am there

[MacMillans son]

Or maybe its because its about 5.30 am there

Well, sure...there's always that

[McElmurry]

Or perhaps, experiencing the dreaded "Topic Fatigue"

That had occurred to me and I imagined them working up the energy to provide nuanced insight once again. It may be on the issue at hand that the cat is not just out of the bag but has had so may litters that any hope of reversing the trend has been extinguished.

[ThistleDown]

OCR said What I find interesting is how ghillies evolved from a shoe with (evidently) strong rural/rustic connexions in the 1860s to a formal shoe by the 1930s. Yes, that's interesting for me, too. Elsewhere I've talked about my father's fastidiousness and his love for fine footwear appropriate to its purpose. He had patent ghillies and I wish I had kept them when he passed away -- if for no other reason than to show them here.

He didn't wear ghillies other than with evening dress that I recall, but some time in the early sixties I acquired a pair of very heavy soled ones with "real" holes to let the water in and out and did wear them for perhaps twenty years. About then I bought a new pair (sans holes) and once in a while still wear them. They weigh almost nothing at all despite their thick soles. I've no idea who made them but thus far they've lived perhaps thirty years (with some good care and periodic attention, I must say).

Footwear is a terribly personal thing, isn't it? Great heavy leather boots for the moors was the way, or wellies if the ground was particularly boggy. Today the wellies are still around, but often other boots are much lighter and foot-conforming. As I get older I find I want shoes more for comfort than for style or, I am happy to admit, tradition.

I still wear my ghillies once in a while although there are few others who do. I lace them up my calf a bit, too and can't recall any smirks or strange looks from relatives, friends or neighbours; but then most are far too polite to show their distaste even if it were present.

[creagdhubh]

Or perhaps, experiencing the dreaded "Topic Fatigue"

***

[OC Richard]

ghillie brogues are seen as less than desirable, and they are often referred to as "those dreaded ghillie brogues"

Well in the Pipe Band scene one hears stuff like that every day... nearly everyone hates ghillies, partly simply because they are required uniform in 99% of pipe bands, and parly because most pipers and drummers have (for some unknowable reason) purchased ghillies that don't fit right.

I've only owned two pair of ghillies since 1976... both Keltic brand... my first (1976) pair are still comfortable but the tops look a bit dogy. My new pair (c1985) are quite comfortable and I spent many a day at Games on my feet for eight or more straight hours with no troubles.

they were never meant as formal shoes... an evolution from the early Highland moccasins.

Yes it seems that this is the case though the ghillies' evolution is, as far as I can tell, nearly entirely undocumented.

They seem to have been quite common in portraits by MacLeay, although I concede that these portraits are not considered the be-all end-all of what Highlanders actually wore.

Specifically, 11 of the 56 kilted men are wearing ghillies, all of them tan rough-out leather (probably indicating their rural outdoor origin) except for a single black pair which, incidentally, have decorative buckles affixed.

About the end-all of what Highlanders actually wore, I am utterly convinced that McLeay painted the subjects in front of him quite accurately, and that his paintings are the end-all of what those specific Highlanders wore at the time they were posing for him. But even a photograph can only record what is in front of the camera the moment the photo is taken, and cannot record what happened at remote times and places. Trying to come up with a complete record of what all Highlanders wore at all times and places is beyond any portrait or photograph.

What I find interesting is how ghillies evolved from a shoe with (evidently) strong rural/rustic connexions in the 1860s to a formal shoe by the 1930s.

Time for pictures!!!

Roughout tan ghillies from The Highlanders of Scotland. Note that most of this man's other leather is also tan.



But by 1936 ghillies are thought of as formal shoes, called "patent lacing brogues"

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Good post Richard. Those interested should note just how delicate these "Patent (leather) Lacing Brogues" are when compared to what's generally available in today's market place. Even today's "Patent (leather) Buckling Brogues" are clunky in comparison to what was on offer back in 1936. It's also interesting to note that "black brogue shoes" were offered for day wear.

[creagdhubh]

Good post Richard. Those interested should note just how delicate these "Patent (leather) Lacing Brogues" are when compared to what's generally available in today's market place. Even today's "Patent (leather) Buckling Brogues" are clunky in comparison to what was on offer back in 1936. It's also interesting to note that "black brogue shoes" were offered for day wear.

Loake can make their Ghillie brogues in any colour of leather, to include shades of brown and tan, as well as black patent leather. They do not show these bespoke options on their website, however, I asked them about other options, and the aforementioned is what they told me. Just FYI.

Cheers,

[John McQuillen]

I'm not from the scottish highlands, but I do sit on a clan association council and so wear highland dress is a more official capacity.

From my experience, everyone in the councils here tend to wear ghillie brogues - in fact I bought some so I looked like the other council members rather than just wearing my ordinary brogues. Having said that many of the council members are from the scottish highlands, and some were in one of the scottish regiments at one time or another. So I view ghillie brogues as a matter of style......... no sure anyone could honestly claim appropriate or not just more whats the most common thing.

[Riverkilt]

Had my hopes up there briefly....maybe they make ghillies in sizes for WIDE feet....alas...even though they offer wide shoes in some models looks like they only offer medium.

Baffles me how folks can sell a shoe for Scotsmen in a narrow width....maybe someday....sigh...