Over the years I have tried my hand at making some PV casual kilts. I have read the threads on kilt making and Barbara Tewksbury & Elsie Stuemyers book The Art of Kiltmaking. Most of these directions work on the basis of a person with 6-pack abs. There have been some excellent discussion on how these directions should be adapted for the person of substance. In may case substance means fat. As a visual learner I work better with pictures than words.
I think I have worked out in my mind how the measurements for 6-pack abs differ from those of 12-pack abs. I will start with a visual of my understanding of difference then ask a question about the shaping of the apron.
To start we have two gentlemen getting ready to order tanks and are preparing measurements to their kilt makers. We have Joe 6-pack (envision Matt Newsome kilted, said in envy) and since I have not posted a picture lately think of Matt holding a pumpkin in front.
Joe takes his measurements at the kilt waist and the kilt hips (fell line).
The difference between the waist measurement and hips determines the amount of taper needed in the pleats. The waist line (red) has been superimposed on the waist line and the difference shown in gold.
Now for Sam’s measurements.
Sam takes his measurements at the kilt waist and the kilt hips (fell line).
The difference between the waist measurement and hips determines the amount of taper needed in the pleats. The waist line (red) has been superimposed on the waist line and the difference shown in gold.
This implies there is negative taper in Sam’s kilt.
Lets take a second and rethink the kilt from the beginning. Isn’t a kilt a cylinder of cloth wrapped around the body, from waist to the knees. This cylinder is then shaped by tapering the back of the cylinder from the fell line to the hips. Using this idea lets re-look at Sam’s kilt and his measurements.
The waist is measured in the same way and at the same spot. The difference is in the hip measurement and how to compensated for the 12-pack cantilevered navel line.
I take a piece of light cardboard (poster board) wrap it around my 12-packs, make sure it is hanging straight and then measure my hips. This will allow the front apron to hang straight and not pucker.
This method works for me and my apron hangs very straight. But, my question is on shaping the apron.
On page 49 of The Art of Kiltmaking there is a picture of the apron. The top of the apron is 2 inches smaller the at the fell line.
This is to adjust for the shape of Joe 6-packs waist versus his hips. How ever for me, thanks to love handles, I do not have an hour glass figure from the front or back view.
Should I add taper to the top of the apron and taper the pleats less? How should I handle this?
I have been having a problem with the graphic interface and will work on cleaning this up in the morning.
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