Kingussie Pleating: Anyone have one?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I don't think just any kilt maker would be able to make a Kingussie pleated kilt for you. For starters, many if not most of them would likely have never heard of such a beast. Fewer still would have had an occasion to see one in person or have actually made one before.

I have a section on my web site describing this style here:
http://www.newhousehighland.com/kingussie.html

The oldest kilt known to have been made in this style is from c. 1820 and is a Robertson tartan. This kilt is presently held at the Highland Folk Museum in Kingussie. Bob Martin documents this kilt in his book All About Your Kilt, and he is the one who coined the term "Kingussie pleat" to describe this unique style of pleating, after studying the kilt at the Highland Folk Museum.

The Robertson tartan this kilt was made from is not the one normally seen today, but has a white line added to the sett. More info here in the National Register.


For those in the US, you can see a replica of this original kilt in the Scottish Tartans Museum in Franklin. The cloth was hand woven by Peter MacDonald and the kilt made by Bob Martin.

Also on display in the Scottish Tartans Museum is a second kilt discovered in this same pleating style, in the Muirhead tartan (or what in modern times has been adopted as the Muirhead tartan). This kilt, made c. 1840, belonged to William Muirhead, of Edinburgh, who migrated to the US in 1854. It is only the second historical kilt to be identified made in this unusual pleating style.

You can read more about that kilt here:
http://scottishtartans.org/muirhead.htm

Both of these kilts are low yardage, being made with about 4 yards of cloth.

Aye,
Matt

[Guinach]

Thanks very much for the info and replies. This might be the style I go for when I settle on a tailor made kilt.
Regards,
Konn

[Pleater]

Having made these for myself, you should be aware that the pleats do tend to fly more than a conventional or a reverse Kingussie, where the pleats run the other way.

I now have only one Kingussie style, having remade all the others, and would recommend a heavy fabric and perhaps even a small weight in the back pleat. For warm weather, however the Kingussie is ideal - at least for me - as it tends to waft cool breezes of its own making when I walk.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[David Dubh]

I have a kinguisse deluxe kilt from John at Keltoi. It is absolutely fantastic!!! I absolutely love it. This is a kinguisse pleated kilt that is made from around 8 yards. The fit and finish are absolutely first class. I would not hesitate to recommend him.

[Guinach]

Interesting that the Robertson tartan pictured is similar to the 42d Pipers' Tartan.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...ruction-76707/

I'm sure there is no connection, just an interesting coincidence.
Konn

[Barb T]

I posted earlier this year on a couple of Kingussie kilts. You can see the post, with pics, at

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...t-woman-75461/

[DrCash]

this is fascinating, does anyone know if there has been a recent demand for the Kingussie style of if there is a regional frequency in the US?

[Guinach]

No idea,
Just wanted to be a little different....
Wait, did I just write that on a kilt forum?
Konn

[Grae]

[QUOTE=Pleater;1139705]Having made these for myself, you should be aware that the pleats do tend to fly more than a conventional or a reverse Kingussie, where the pleats run the other way.

I heard this said before but that has not been my experience. I wear knife pleated kilts, 4 yard box pleated and kingussie style. All my kilts are 100 wool and either medium or heavy weight.

I have not experienced "fly away" pleats , extra up-draught or any other difficulty in wearing the kingussie at all. Indeed i recommend them as a very comfortable and easy style. If there is any difference the kingussie is a little easier to sit down in , the pleats don't bunch up.

Just my experience. I would recommend you contact one of the kilt makers on this forum who know how to make one and you will not go wrong.

[Pleater]

It could be purely a minimal sensation of extra ventilation giving the impression of greater fly. I don't have pictures to prove it.

With the reverse Kingussie the pleats lie like the feathers on a bird's wings which is ideal for hiking in this area, far fewer snags than with a standard knife or Kingussie.

If anyone was considering making a kilt to wear when running I would recommend a Kingussie style purely from the way that it feels as though it is flowing out behind, losing contact - it could be just an illusion, but when I started out making Kingussie style kilts I never wore them without a liner.

I'd certainly recommend a heavy fabric for any first experiences in the Kingussie style, so as to test the way they interact with your environment and lifestyle.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: