Stewart Hunting pleating advice

**Aspiringloser** · 14th August 13, 07:58 AM

The blue is really visible in the ancient colorway.

**Aspiringloser** · 14th August 13, 08:55 AM

This question is for the professional kiltmakers viewing this thread: How would you pleat this tartan to the sett with a piece of double width fabric? Would you flip it and just accept that the twill line would be running two different directions, or would you try to pick up the elements of the sett to continue the sett across the pleats?It seems to me that pleating it to the alternating stripes would allow you to mask the fact that the sett has reversed. Half of your pleats would have opposite reveals to the other half but I don't think this would be that obvious since you're pleating to alternate stripes. You'll have two alternating pleat reveals since you have two different stripes. I suppose you could also just keep the twill line running the same direction and just pleat it to show that the sett has reversed. I doubt anyone would do this.
Sorry for the thread hijack.

**RockyR** · 15th August 13, 11:27 AM

Kiltmakers would generally order this cloth SINGLE width so that there would be no splicing. Any time there's an asymmetrical sett, the mills (USUALLY) will be happy to sell you a single width piece b/c they recognize the issues.

If you already HAVE a piece of the cloth and it's double width and you're asking what, in my opinion, is the lessor of the "evils", then I'd say to splice it and have the twill run opposite directions. Only 1 in 1000 people will notice aside from you. Will it be perfect? No, but it's better than the alternatives of stripes not matching up.

**TheOfficialBren** · 15th August 13, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by RockyR

Kiltmakers would generally order this cloth SINGLE width so that there would be no splicing. Any time there's an asymmetrical sett, the mills (USUALLY) will be happy to sell you a single width piece b/c they recognize the issues.

If you already HAVE a piece of the cloth and it's double width and you're asking what, in my opinion, is the lessor of the "evils", then I'd say to splice it and have the twill run opposite directions. Only 1 in 1000 people will notice aside from you. Will it be perfect? No, but it's better than the alternatives of stripes not matching up.

Since Shaw is an asymemetrical sett is it problematic when it comes to pleating? Just curious since I'm considering a tank down the road in Shaw Modern. Thanks.

**RockyR** · 15th August 13, 05:17 PM

Originally Posted by TheOfficialBren

Since Shaw is an asymemetrical sett is it problematic when it comes to pleating? Just curious since I'm considering a tank down the road in Shaw Modern. Thanks.

Which Shaw are you referring to as asymmetrical?

**Aspiringloser** · 15th August 13, 07:14 PM

Thanks for the reply, Rocky. I have a double width piece but I plan on pleating it to the alternating red and yellow stripes. I don't care that the sett will be reversed as it won't be visible the way it will be pleated. The sett on the underapron will be reversed from the sett on the apron but I don't care. I'd rather have the twill line continuous throughout the pleats. I don't plan on pleating this one to the sett, I was just curious how a pro would handle it.

**TheOfficialBren** · 15th August 13, 09:58 PM

Originally Posted by RockyR

Which Shaw are you referring to as asymmetrical?

Shaw, Modern colours

As I understand it this is considered to be an asymmetrical sett, correct? Am I muisundersanding what constitutes an assymetrical sett and a symmetrical sett?

**RockyR** · 16th August 13, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by TheOfficialBren

Shaw, Modern colours

As I understand it this is considered to be an asymmetrical sett, correct? Am I muisundersanding what constitutes an assymetrical sett and a symmetrical sett?

That tartan is symmetrical. If you put a mirror on the red line, it would be a mirror image of itself.