Can Anyone ID this Victorian Kilt Jacket?

[OC Richard]

Here's something I can't remember seeing elsewhere, a jacket buttoning this high

[keith_b]

Thanks for the pics OC Richard. That's exactly the look I'm going for. I do like the look of the shorter lapels with just the top button done up and waistcoat underneath. I like the examples where the jackets appear fairly simple - plain cuffs, no epaulets, etc...almost a workwear-type look to them. Like a kilt jacket chore coat.

[Elf]

It was very popular in the late 19th century for lapels to be shorter, that is, for jackets to button higher. It was also popular to button the top button only. Many jackets were "cut away" to some extent so that an inverted "V" was created, the jacket hanging open beneath the single buttoned button, in other words.

I have learned from my friends in US civil war re-enacting that army regulations demanded the top button be done up. The other buttons were not mentioned leading to the above style substituting for leaving the front compleatly open. In many ways civilian fashion is influenced by the military practice and this apears one of them. Provided however, did UK military regulations have a similar provision? Some of our militaria enthusiasts from the old country please advise.

[keith_b]

Here's a pic of a newly offered sack coat from a Japanese company that focuses on the workwear fashion trend. Unfortunately the jacket is close to $400...a little too rich for my blood, but it does appear to be cut-away a good deal so that you could wear it as is with a sporran.

FEaoPl.jpg

[Pleater]

With an eye to the construction of these jackets, the modern sack jacket is a very different construction to the older jackets - the sack jacket is, essentially, hung from the shoulders, with shoulder pads and internal reinforcement. This alters the outline, and makes the wearer appear to have broader shoulders and a more muscular upper body, but it also stiffens the top of the garment so that the wearer moves around inside it rather than it conforming to his movements.

I always find it slightly disconcerting to see someone wearing such a rigid jacket moving their arms and the jacket shoulders retaining their shape and orientation - or at least attempting to do so. Men who ARE powerfully built are often seen with the jacket collar sunk down and the reinforcement holding up the back of the jacket in a way which makes them look as though they have still got the coat hanger in place.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: