Cuffs on traditional Highland jackets

[Jock Scot]

JOCK, Is this the source of the phrase Wavy Navy?

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I cannot speak with absolute authority on this, but I think the RNVR wavy stripes did in fact lead to that title.

In my youth I remember my father , who was quite senior in the RN, telling me a definition of the three groups of officers. Rather silly in many ways but I think does contain an element of truth within, in rather a whimsical way:
Royal Navy(RN): Gentlemen and sailors.
Royal Naval Reserve(RNR): Sailors, but not gentlemen.
Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve(RNVR): Gentlemen, but not sailors.

My father, notwithstanding the above, was in awe of all the daring deeds ,sacrifices and skill that all three groups of sailors, of any rank, achieved within the Royal Navy as well as those from the Merchant Marine during WW2.

[OC Richard]

I had heard that the buttons on the cuffs were so that the average rank and file soldiers wouldn't wipe their snottery noses with the cuffs of their jackets.

The buttons were on the cuffs to fasten them shut, originally, because they were functional (that is, could be opened or closed). It's a constant thing in the evolution of military uniforms, functional things becoming merely decorative (and oftentimes then disappearing altogether, because sooner or later Form Follows Function).

[Orionson]

An excellent and informative thread, as always, Richard.

Personally speaking, I have always preferred the gauntlet cuff.

[Spartan Tartan]

I very much enjoy the look and style of a gauntlet cuff. I have long considered that if I were to have another jacket made, that I would ask the tailor to have the gauntlet cuff be "functional". Even if I never unbuttoned it, I just think that detail would be nice. Of course, it would go largely unnoticed because the vast majority of people would never think to have a functional cuff of that sort. But then again, I would not do it for them.... I would do it for my own enjoyment of the garment.

The only trouble with a gauntlet cuff, as I see it, it tailoring. If one buys a jacket with a gauntlet cuff and the sleeve length is not just right, then the jacket looks ill-fit and would be extremely difficult to tailor--at least I would think. Given the rarity of such a style, I suspect that most local tailors would have no experience working with such. With this in mind, I find it very difficult to "pull the trigger" on a jacket that I am not able to try on.

I realize there are ranges of where cuffs should fall with respect to the shirt cuff and wrist. Were it me, I would rather it be slightly short than slightly long...but then again, I see neither as being easy to adjust with a tailor.

[Stitchwiz]

It is actually not difficult to make a gauntlet cuff. A good tailor will have no problem giving you what you want, and will probably enjoy having a 'challenge'. It is just common sense design and construction. Most jobs that tailors do these days are the same old, same old...

It is always easier to make something shorter, but very difficult to make it longer.

[MacLowlife]

In many cases the gauntlet cuff has been made separately and attached to the sleeve. Once you figure out how it is attached, taking it off and shortening the sleeve is pretty simple- And, because of the amount of sleeve material that is covered by the cuff, it is often possible to add some more length under the cuff. Either way, it is easier to alter than removing the PC style ornament and re-attaching it. If that strip were to cover an actual functioning placket and cuff, I think alterations would be tricky indeed.

[IrishSean]

The buttons were on the cuffs to fasten them shut, originally, because they were functional (that is, could be opened or closed). It's a constant thing in the evolution of military uniforms, functional things becoming merely decorative (and oftentimes then disappearing altogether, because sooner or later Form Follows Function).

So, BenningBoy has explained the functionality of the gauntlet cuff. What wouldbethe function of the slash-type CUFF?

[kiltedtom]

As far as the buttons on the cuff issue, credit for having buttons on the military cuffs is usually given to Napoleon Boneparte. And yes, it is usually said to keep the rank and file soldier from dirtying up his uniform.

Buttons on shirts, jackets, even dresses, originally, were costly. So often only the wealthy could afford them. (This is still seen in the fashion that women's colthing is buttoned from the left side of the garment. This was so that a servant, who most often was right handed and facing the woman, could more easily button the item for the wearer.) Lower classes used other means of fastening clothes: pins, latch and hook, lacing, etc. And, of course, the lower the class, the less manners associated with individuals. This applied to soldiers too. Napoleon, coming from the upper class like most European officers of the day, was appalled at the customs of the commoners and determined to make his soldiers have better manners. Very simple really.

So, was Napoleon the very first to develop this fashion? Most likely there will be all sorts of disagreements. But he is believed to be the cause of cuff buttons in the French military which took this fashion, along with ideas of the French Revolution of 1789, throughout much of central and western Europe, and thereby, much of the rest of the western world.

As for me, I just shift the cuff around when I need to wipe my nose.

Have a great week, everyone.

Tom

[MacLowlife]

So, BenningBoy has explained the functionality of the gauntlet cuff. What wouldbethe function of the slash-type CUFF?

I think the slash cuff is like a shirt cuff, or was originally. It opened in order to get your hand through, then closed with buttons to keep the wind out. At some point, people figured out how much better the shirt-jacket interface worked if your jacket cuffs weren't so tight against your shirt cuffs.

Some expensive Saxon jackets (and cheap ones made to look like they are expensive) have working sleeve buttons. I have heard these called "surgeons' cuffs" and have also heard that the point is to allow you to roll up your sleeve. Other than the point being to show you spent more money than other people... And why does it cost more? Because the sleeve length can't be adjusted after you have made buttonholes. While people may disagree as to its exact location, there is a perfect spot for cuff buttons. If you shorten an off-the rack sleeve, you just move the buttons. But if you are working around buttonholes, your ability to move is limited.

The cool kids will wear their jacket cuffs with one or two buttons unbuttoned, just to make sure you can see they have working cuffs. One button undone looks like you lost a button, but two, well that looks intentional

[OC Richard]

So, BenningBoy has explained the functionality of the gauntlet cuff. What wouldbethe function of the slash-type CUFF?

In the Original Post I posted photos of early examples of both cuff types, the round cuff and the slash cuff, at a point (early to mid 18th century) when they were still functional, that is, could be opened or closed at whim.

-the round cuff (or gauntlet cuff) when undone allowed the sleeve to be lengthened. In other words, the sleeve was made several inches too long, then turned back and buttoned.

-the slash cuff when undone allowed a tight sleeve to be loosened. This was a practical matter when fashion dictated a tight form-fitting sleeve, too tight to get your hand through.

Like this



BTW early Irish jackets from peat bogs had very tight sleeves which were buttoned all the way up.

Like this



I'll add this stuff to the OP which will make the evolution clear.

BTW this jacket may have lost the vestigial cuffs, but it has retained another feature which was functional on 18th century jackets but has later become merely decorative.



Take a gander at an 18th century "regimental"