Hi, I'm pretty new to kilt making and I'm starting work on a new kilt in Black Watch tartan with a 9" sett. I'm going to pleat to the stripe, am I better off with fewer and deeper pleats using the full 9" ? Or with this tartan I can cut the sett in half and pleat to the black stripe on the green band giving me more pleats but about the same amount of fabric, any advice would be appreciated, thanks.