Xkilt without sewing machine?

[The Wizard of BC]

OK, if you are being quoted $85.00 per yard for fabric you are being quoted a premium retail price. I am in Canada and I retail Lochcarron fabric for $80.00cdn. That is only $61.76 in US Dollars at today's exchange rate.

For someone attending Kilt Kamp I offer the exact same fabric at only 10% over wholesale.

Is it possible that the Tartan you want would have to be custom woven? The difference with custom woven fabric is that you have to order a minimum amount at one time. The weaving and hence the final price per yard isn't really that much different. Buying 12 yards instead of 4 does add up pretty quick.

Yea, if I had been quoted $85.00 US per yard I would be a bit reluctant to buy it too.

[SpartanD63]

I guess it turns out my google-fu wasn't quite good enough. I found some Lochcarron fabric for $55/yd in the tartan I want with a different spelling of the name. Still a bit pricey for the moment, but I might have to look into that when I have more money... And yeah, that $85/m price was for premium wool.

So I guess first I'll look at getting a copy of that book.

[Father Bill]

The book is a great start. I've never made a kilt and have no intention of doing so, but I learned a lot about the kilts I wear by reading through it.

AFTER you've done that, you'll likely have some very different ideas.

Bill+

[auteurusa]

Having both made the Xkilt and done a bit of hand sewing I would suggest buying a sewing machine. I agree with the previous comment regarding hand sewing an all wool kilt as it is softer, really requires hand stitching the setts. If you plan on making a box kilt like the Xkilt in a poly/cotton twill or canvas duct then hand sewing may get a bit tedious, and without the side benefit of setts or stripes to guide the work.

Incidentally, I bought my all metal Singer for fifteen dollars at a thrift shop. It's nothing fancy, but built like a tank. Though that was years ago, I saw an equally well built machine in Goodwill last week. I didn't think to check the price but I have seen them for thirty dollars, and they have had more whistles and bells than my fifteen dollar purchase (think automatic button hole makers). I asked when I bought my machine if it did not work would I be allowed to return it within a couple of days. The manager agreed that with my receipt I could make a return. I didn't need to return my machine, but since it was a thrift shop rather than a dealer it seemed prudent.

Good luck, and take your time, with or without a machine.

[Alan H]

I echo everything that Steve wrote.

Hand-sewing an X-Kilt would be a pain in the hindquarters. It's not worth it. The X-Kilt is exactly what Steve made it out to be...quick and dirty. 13 hours of work and you've got a kilt. Consider it a learning experience. One thing that I think it's excellent for is as "Kilt #1" in a three-kilt process towards making a really nice tartan kilt.

Step 1 - Make an X-Kilt out of solid or camouflage cotton-polyester blend. Now you have at least a clue what goes into making a kilt and you have a knockaround garment to trash whilst out hiking or working in the garden or whatever. For some folks, this is all they want...that's great. Nothing says that you can't make another one, right?

Step 2. Buy Barbs book. Then look on ebay for some discount twill wool, enough to get about 6 yards of single-width. Hand-sew this stuff up into a kilt following the instructions in Barb's book. Once you're done with that, you'll know where your mistakes are likely to be and how to fix them. Now you have a "pub kilt" or something to take hiking, or whatever suits you.

Step 3. Buy the expensive wool. Take everything you've learned from Step 1 and 2 and make yourself a really nice traditional kilt.

[SpartanD63]

I echo everything that Steve wrote.

Hand-sewing an X-Kilt would be a pain in the hindquarters. It's not worth it. The X-Kilt is exactly what Steve made it out to be...quick and dirty. 13 hours of work and you've got a kilt. Consider it a learning experience. One thing that I think it's excellent for is as "Kilt #1" in a three-kilt process towards making a really nice tartan kilt.

Step 1 - Make an X-Kilt out of solid or camouflage cotton-polyester blend. Now you have at least a clue what goes into making a kilt and you have a knockaround garment to trash whilst out hiking or working in the garden or whatever. For some folks, this is all they want...that's great. Nothing says that you can't make another one, right?

Step 2. Buy Barbs book. Then look on ebay for some discount twill wool, enough to get about 6 yards of single-width. Hand-sew this stuff up into a kilt following the instructions in Barb's book. Once you're done with that, you'll know where your mistakes are likely to be and how to fix them. Now you have a "pub kilt" or something to take hiking, or whatever suits you.

Step 3. Buy the expensive wool. Take everything you've learned from Step 1 and 2 and make yourself a really nice traditional kilt.

That's a very interesting way to think about it. Might have to approach it like that.

[flyingpiper]

I too was struggling with the idea of spending on expensive tartan for a first kilt.

I first bought and read Barbs book, and had previously read all about the Xkilt and other methods. I was looking for some way to cheaply try out the methods, but Steve talked me out of it! And I'm glad he did. His earlier explanation is the best I've seen from him yet.

I have the benefit of having just completed Kilt Kamp with Barb, and managed to turn out an excellent kilt that I am extremely proud of thanks to both Barbs expert instruction, and good quality heavy wool tartan.

To be clear, my prior sewing experience was reattaching errant buttons.

One of the major things about working with a good wool is it is incredibly shapeable. Some tailor basting, a bit of steam, and pressing over a ham will shape the wool in ways no other fabric will, at least not without adding darts or other mechanical shaping techniques.

I found the wool to be incredibly forgiving to work with.

If you are working through the book, and are having troubles with a particular part, post here and folks will help, but bottom line is to decide what you want from a kilt.

I now have the courage having completed my first kilt (as shown on the kilt Kamp photo journal) to dive into different methods of construction, like a box pleat, or maybe even a contemporary kilt like Steve makes.

Decide what you want, take the plunge. You won't regret it.