Self designed self made Kilt for Blacksmithing

**Geoff Withnell** · 14th May 17, 11:18 PM

Wow, for an first attempt that is awesome. I would also recommend getting Barbara Tewksbury's book "The Art of Kiltmaking". I have no intention of every making a kilt, and I learned a lot about being a kiltie from it. Welcome to the Rabble.

**KMCMICHAEL** · 15th May 17, 03:59 AM

You will probably not need to worry about the kilt falling down like pants.

**twandawg85** · 15th May 17, 10:02 AM

I can already tell that! Thats one of the biggest reasons that when I got the thing on I went "I NEED MORE OF THESE!!"

First thing my wife did was go "you gonna make me one?"

Anybody have any suggestions for the whole fell thing? From the waistband down my measurements just get smaller. But I think the pleats look odd being loose all the way to the top. The pockets should fix some of that though.

**Taskr** · 15th May 17, 12:35 PM

Hip smaller than waist is not necessarily difficult, even though we usually deal with it the other way around. Its about taper. Calculate the difference between waist and fell - which is -4 inches. You want to distribute that -4 inches across the point where that 49" hip measurement is. If you read Alan's description of calculating and applying tapering to the fell in the Xkilt instructions, you would apply that instruction in the reverse since you are reducing at the fell rather than expanding.

The challenge might be that the kilt is already completed. But it looks to me that you have some open space between the pleats that can be absorbed for tapering.

**twandawg85** · 16th May 17, 01:24 AM

Yeah I get how I could do that, but I think that would look really weird.

Put some side pockets in it last night. Right in between pleats doesn't look any different from the outside.

And added a deep pleat under the apron. Messed up the way the front lays though. Had to take out some stitches to get the deep pleat in right. Didn't go back together right. Now where the front apron meets the waistband has some twist/wrinkles. Gonna tear it apart again tomorrow and fix it. That front used to lay so flat and look so nice. I hope I can get it flat again.

**Taskr** · 16th May 17, 09:01 AM

You could always just pin the taper at the fell to see how it looks. Perhaps you will find there is a point above the fell that will provide what you are looking for regarding the fall of the pleats. You've certainly demonstrated your ability to experiment with kilting thus far.

**twandawg85** · 16th May 17, 11:22 AM

Well I could, but... I don't have any pins. I am making a video. Ill post that when I'm done making it. You will see some of my thought process and......creative fixes for not having the correct tools when I get that done.... Gotta finish the kilt before I edit the video though!!

Working on fixing that front and Adding cargo pockets today!!

**twandawg85** · 16th May 17, 10:21 PM

Got one of the cargo pockets on it. I'm not sure what I'm doing, but I keep making things longer than they are supposed to be. The cargo pockets were supposed to be either at or above the bottom of the kilt....not below. I can't just raise it up because it will get in the way of the side pocket. I like measuring metal much better than fabric. If I want the metal to be 6 inches long, I cut it six inches long. None of this seam allowance stuff. And if I cut it at 6 inches it stays at 6 inches, there is no stretch.

I also sewed part of the pleats down. I don't know if its still considered a fell, because the measurement doesn't change the pleats are just secured down.

What do you guys think? better before or after I did the "fell"

In the first picture you can see evidence of the side pocket. The side pocket is the pleat that is not laying flat at the top on the right. You can stick your hand right into that pleat, and there is a large pocket.

**Taskr** · 17th May 17, 11:04 AM

Sewn down looks very good IMO

Yes, cloth can be a challenge as it will move and stretch especially in machine sewing. Pins can be an important 'anchor' to keeping things in place and shape as the foot and needle move over the item.

**twandawg85** · 17th May 17, 12:58 PM

Yes, doing this without pins has definitely been a challenge. I'm getting through though. And so far am pleased with the result.... Haven't decided if I am going to try and shorten this pocket or make the other one to match.

I'm trying to get this done so I can edit the video this weekend. I post videos on Mondays, and this one was supposed to be Mondays video. Hopefully I get it done. To finish I need to add one more cargo pocket on the other side. At least one back pocket (two if time allows). A pocket for my phone. And an under apron pocket (this one will be the easiest as it will just be a patch pocket). I had plans to add other super secret pockets, but I think I'm not gonna do them so I can get it done soon enough to release the video Monday.