How do leg proportions affect kilt proportions?

[Dixieman]

Kilts can go down to anywhere just below the knee to just above the knee. If you have a long torso, short legs for your height, does an above-the-knee or below-the-knee kilt look better? What if you have a short torso, long legs for your height?

I am 180.5 cm tall with an inseam of 85.5 cm. Not pants inseam; crotch-to-floor inseam. Do I have short legs? What's your height and crotch-to-floor inseam? You know, where you get a hardcover binder, shove the binder spine up your crotch, firmly against the sit bone, and using a tape measure to measure the top of the binder to the floor?

Also, what you have a big waist but very skinny calves? How does the kiltmaker make sure that it doesn't look like your kilt doesn't look like it could fit four of your legs? I know kilts flare out like an A-line skirt, but how does the kiltmaker determine how much the kilt flares out from the waist to the bottom?