Name that tartan!

[MacSimoin]

An...ti...ci...pation.

I'm still thinking it's a variation on and not the Stewart Black tartan...Or, maybe it's a similar albeit unregistered tartan? If this is a totally different tartan, I'm doubtful it is listed or registered with the STA simply because of its closeness in thread counts/colors to the Stewart.

Regardless of which tartan it actually is, it would still make a smart kilt.

PS The first pic was fine---I just tried to increase the color a bit and then enlarged the image so everyone could see what I was referring to in my last post. I look forward to seeing your new pics.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

This is close enough to Black Stewart to call it Black Stewart. But MacSim is right. There are some minor variations in the pattern between the warp and weft of the fabric.

This is frequently done to tartan designs by mills weaving cloth for fashion purposes. Look at most any plaid shirt hanging in your closet, flannel or otherwise. Nine times out of ten the design will be different in the warp and weft.

Black Stewart is an extremely popular tartan, very recognizable, and like other variations of the Royal Stewart tartan, is commonly produced in all manner of cloth intended to be used for general clothing.

All this is to say, don't be disspointed when you get the cloth to find that it is not ideal for kilting. Had a woolen mill produced this specifically as kilting cloth, you would see the same pattern in warp and weft.

Aye,
Matt

[LordDamax]

Well I got the tartan today. Good news and bad news.

Good news: It's definately not wool saxony. If it IS wool, and to be honest, I dont know. My mom insists it is, I dont know, my wife thinks it may be a wool blend. Maybe it's PV? But it looks and feels like high quality suit wool.

Bad news: Based on the best calculations I can make, this is like 8oz fabric. My measure of length is a ballpark estimate as I dont have the space to measure it properly (I folded it, then again, then again, measured and multipled by 8 to get 6.4 yards) 6.4 yards times 60 inches divided by 36x54 inches equaled 7.22. Weighed the whole thing, it's 59 ounces. 59 / 7.22 = 8.1 ounces.

So regardless of if it is or is not wool, it is only 8oz fabric. Will I make a kilt from it? Sure, why the hell not. Good practice at the very least.

Now, to the true experts out here (Barb, MAC, and others) if you'd be willing I'd like to cut a small piece and mail it to you if possible if you'd be willing to take a look and tell me what you think it really is. I'm not that well versed in tartans and fabrics... I own one traditional kilt, and it's a stillwater wool black watch. This might be PV for all I know, I've never (knowingly) seen PV.

Also a tell-tale sign it's not real woven wool is the selvage... its not what I'd want for a hem on my kilt. Here's a pic:



If you go to: http://www.ebonmists.com/kilts/index.php?page=2

I posted 4 pics there. If you click the thumbnail there is a larger pic. On the larger pic page, there is a link for a high-quality printable image, this is a 2meg 5megapixel image that really shows the weave detail.

If anyone has better insight into this fabric please let me know. If an expert would allow me to send them a small sample (assuming it cannot be identified by the pics) let me know and PM me an address.

Thanks!

[MacSimoin]

LordDamax:

Not sure what the issue is, but the thumbnails don't lead to an enlarged image using IE 6, but they do show using Firefox (just thought I'd let ya know).

Those are excellent pics of the tartan but I'm still thinking it's not truly a Stewart Black and that it's just artistic license at play with the mill/weaver. Matt or one of the other experts here would truly be able to answer this once and for all...Though I have a keen eye, I'm an amateur at this at best.

Best of luck with the material and post some pics of the kilt when you get finished...I'm sure we'd all like to see how it works out for you!

[LordDamax]

When you click on the image its not bringing you to a larger image? It's a simple href link, nothing fancy... and I justg tried it in IE, worked fine. Click the thumbnail itself, not any text around it.

Addendum: I noticed in Barb's book that it says 10oz worsted wool is usually does NOT have the selvage finished for kiltmaking. Maybe my weighing procedures are off and it's 10oz, or maybe 10oz fabric doesnt really weigh 10oz (kinda like how a 2x4 isnt really 2" by 4" ;)

And yeah it's got a few differences between itself and Black Stewart. That blue line I thought may have been color ghosting is actually a blue band, and the other blue bands that SHOULD be there aren't, and the should-be-yellow line is white.

EIther way it's close enough to me and should look real nice pleated to stripe, assuming I can get it to hold a pleat well.

[MacSimoin]

I agree...pleated to stripe, the material will look great as a kilt. Best of luck!