Making my first X-Kilt

[fluter]

The under apron pleat is shown in appendix 1, but it is not mentioned in the manual, so I do not know what to do with it. Do I handle it like a normal pleat, and fold it under the over apron, or ....... ?

Jake, this may be a question of terminology. What's labelled "under apron pleat" is the pleat on the left-hand side of the outer/top apron. On a traditional knife-pleated kilt, this would be an extra large knife pleat.

IN the section Tack down the top of the outer apron around page 25, we read "Move ‘round to the front of the kilt and lay out the left hand edge of the over apron next to the forward-facing edge of pleat #1." We've lined up and sewed the left edge of the apron already; now bring it to touch the first pleat. IN the process, that fabric allowance between them is folded under the apron to make a pleat.

Also, tapering of the pleats. Am I just reducing the width of the exposed pleat (3" part), or do I need to something with the under pleats?

You're going to reduce the top, exposed part of the pleat; and somehow fold under the excess. Think of "rolling" the extra bit of fabric underneath each side of the pleat, into the concealed parts of the pleats, then pinning it down to top-stitch it.

If your pleats stared out like Alan's, then you have a half inch gap underneath. Where you're tapering more than 1/2 inch, either let the back of adjacent pleats overlap or make an extra fold near the waist. I chose to overlap them. I don't have a useful picture handy... Hope this helps.

[Jake_S]

That does help, thank you. I don't know why that part of the instructions did not click, but it does now.

On the tapering, I did mine last night, like you described above, but I wasn't sure if that was correct or not.


Hopefully my kilt will be finished by Friday, and I can wear it to the St Paddies day party on Saturday.

Cross fingers!

[Jake_S]

I pinned the taper last night, and tried it on before I stitch them down. The fit is good, a little loose around the hips, but not noticeable except to me. My wife was very shocked that the piece of fabric that I purchased 2 months ago (yes, I did say 2 months ago. I'm a little slow) is almost a kilt now, and it looks good.

I'll throw some pics up tonite after I sew the taper, the waistband, and the belt loops on.

I am so EXCITED!!!!!!! It's almost finished *Doing the happy dance*

Jake

[Alan H]

Just checking in...

Regarding tapering, yes, what you are doing is making those three-inch wide pleats, narrower as they approach the waist.

You don't taper the first and last pleats because they are actually on the front part of your body. You want to work in a lot of taper on the next two pleats....and the two pleats before the last pleat....to help the kilt wrap around your body.

the you distribute the rest of the taper you need over the rest of your remaining pleats.

If you're "stout" I think the thing to do is work in "less" taper on pleat #2 and #3, and also on the next-to-the-last...and the next-to-the-next-to-the last pleat, and then get a little more in the pleats that will lie in the middle of your back.

Looking forward to the pictures!

[Jake_S]

Thanks for the explanation Alan. I would definitely not be considered of "stout" stature. I tried on the kilt last night after pinning the tapers and it fits well in the waist. Let's hope that I can sew the tapers down with out screwing them up.

I hope to have pics up tomorrow night.

[Jake_S]

And Alan, thanks for writing that manual. Next time I'm in Cali, I'll buy you your choice of beverage.

[Jake_S]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!

I finished the kilt, except the belt loops. I have pics and they will be uploaded tomorrow. Sorry there isn't a shot of the pleats.

Let me say that this was a fun project, and I learned a lot (like how to use a sewing machine!).

I will be making another kilt in the same material for my brother (who is currently kiltless), and I will post pics of that one when it's finished also.

I want to give a great big thanks to everyone that answered my questions, and to Alan (again) for taking the time to write the manual.

OK, it's late and I will stop rambling.

Jake

[Alan H]

Looking forward to seeing your handiwork!

[Jake_S]

As promised here are the pics of my kilt.









I had to use the camera on my phone since our digi cam crapped out.

Let me know what you think

Jake

[sharpdressedscot]

I can't see the pics...