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4th January 09, 07:04 AM
#21
Originally Posted by turpin
I just love looking at pictures of a Master's work.
This coming from a true "legend"
Thank you! For the kind words and much valued remarks.
I don't feel like a master if only because especially in the sporran-making arena I am still fumbling away. Some things on my latest i maybe could have done with a bit more finesse and some things I might not have done at all. That said, I feel that this is fundamentally a good design with lots of possibilities...and the fact that there is no stitching showing on the outside is kind of a bonus.
Last edited by DWFII; 4th January 09 at 08:06 AM.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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4th January 09, 07:09 AM
#22
Thanks for the info on the cantle. Great explanation.
Brian
In a democracy it's your vote that counts; in feudalism, it's your Count that votes.
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4th January 09, 07:57 AM
#23
Very nice looking!
Well done.
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4th January 09, 08:09 AM
#24
Originally Posted by turpin
I just love looking at pictures of a Master's work.
I am right there with Turpin. What will make you a pro is to sell, but you are a true Master.
Very nice work.
MrBill
Very Sir Lord MrBill the Essential of Happy Bottomshire
Listen to kpcw.org
Every other Saturday 1-4 PM
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4th January 09, 09:28 AM
#25
In an effort to make-up for not taking a series of photos while the sporran was in construction...
Here's a shot of the tools I use to round close. The shiny disc is a dime--it measures @ 17mm (11/16") in diameter. I included it in the photo for a size reference.
The top two tools are my sewing awls. Actually the awls are the metal blades. These used to be much more common than they are now. They were common in the bespoke shoe trade and are known as "sewing awls." If I remember correctly, this size (some of the smallest) are known as "cricket awls." The awl handles (hafts) were made by me on my lathe--the top one is black and white ebony, the bottom one is bocote.
In the center of the photo is a remnant of thread that I might have used for round closing. It is tipped with a nylon monofilament bristle. The thread itself is dacron and a special wax consisting of pine pitch and beeswax is used to coat the thread. This wax is sticky and "locks" the stitches tight when they have cooled down from the heat of being pulled through the hole.
Originally and traditionally ( but now very hard to obtain) a boar's bristle was used. At the bottom of the photo is a prime India white, 8" boar's bristle. Historically the thread would have been maybe (depending on the job) 3 strands of #10 linen yarn, tapered, twisted, and waxed into a strand with a hand wax similar to the one used on the dacron.
The boar's bristle would have been split (it naturally has a number of split ends which makes splitting much easier) and the tapered end(s) of the thread would have been twisted onto the bristle.
As mentioned, the boar's bristles and top quality linen yarn are very hard to come by and so nylon monofilament fishing line is used in lieu of the boar's bristle and it is split with a sharp knife. The dacron thread takes the place of the linen but must be tapered so that it is virtually no thicker than a human hair at the point. Again the thread is twisted or plaited onto the nylon bristle.
BTW, this nylon bristle/dacron thread remnant was used successfully (although it was a near thing) but towards the end the wraps "rucked up" considerably. Ideally, when the bristle is wrapped, the wraps themselves create a thin and smooth transition from the diameter of the bristle to the diameter of the thread. Any bumps or bunching will cause the bristle to hang up in the hole...eventually stripping the wraps right off the bristle.
Probably more than you ever wanted to know but perhaps mildly entertaining for all of that.
Last edited by DWFII; 4th January 09 at 09:30 PM.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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4th January 09, 09:35 AM
#26
BTW, I appreciate the compliments and comments (keep 'em coming )
But at the same time I want to thank everyone so far for the kind words and high praise.
Thank you.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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4th January 09, 08:21 PM
#27
It's your technique and knowledge that makes you the Master, DWFII, not what you are making.
I remember reading a book when I was a boy called Singing Wheels, which had a character named Shoemaker Dan. Dan would take a boars bristle and a length of thread, and twist the bristle and thread with beeswax until they were fast together. He would sew and pull until he had "a seam that wil hold water!" I don't know whay that stuck with me but your pix and posts reminded me of it.
thanks for the tool pix as well. I have a few of those and other items.
Convener, Georgia Chapter, House of Gordon (Boss H.O.G.)
Where 4 Scotsmen gather there'll usually be a fifth.
7/5 of the world's population have a difficult time with fractions.
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4th January 09, 09:56 PM
#28
Good on ya lad. Very fine work indeed. Definately a job to be proud of. Thanks for sharing your techniques with us.
His Exalted Highness Duke Standard the Pertinacious of Chalmondley by St Peasoup
Member Order of the Dandelion
Per Electum - Non consanguinitam
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5th January 09, 07:48 AM
#29
Originally Posted by turpin
It's your technique and knowledge that makes you the Master, DWFII, not what you are making.
I remember reading a book when I was a boy called Singing Wheels, which had a character named Shoemaker Dan. Dan would take a boars bristle and a length of thread, and twist the bristle and thread with beeswax until they were fast together. He would sew and pull until he had "a seam that wil hold water!" I don't know whay that stuck with me but your pix and posts reminded me of it.
thanks for the tool pix as well. I have a few of those and other items.
It's kind of you to say that, in any event.
I don't know the story you refer to but I may have been living it for the last 35+ years.
Beeswax alone won't make a waterproof seam. Nor will it hold a thread on a bristle. But start off with some pine pitch, and equal amount of pine rosin, a little sperm whale oil (or in later years cod) to soften it and a little beeswax to temper it; heat all in a small tin until completely melted and mixed (don't boil) and then pour into a basin of cold water.
After the wax has had a chance to harden for a few minutes, carefully pull the wax out of the water and begin to "taffy pull" it. Pull, fold, twist.
When it turns from black to a bronze colour it is ready to sit for a day or so before being applied to the thread.
This wax will indeed make a waterproof seam. As the thread is drawn through the hole, the wax heats up and gets soft. When the stitch is pulled tight, the wax will harden up and seal the hole. It will also "freeze up" solid if you stop pulling for even a couple of seconds. So much so that the thread will be very, very hard to get started moving again.
The "recipe" above has many variations and the quantities of each component are varied from maker to maker and from season to season. But the original recipe goes back to the 13th century (at least) when the Great Leather Act of 12xx (?) officially codified the recipes and techniques of the Cordwainers of England under the King.
Aren't you glad you asked?
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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5th January 09, 01:37 PM
#30
Fascinating! Riveting information passed on to the unwashed. I would follow your recipe if I planned to carry water in my sporrans.
Convener, Georgia Chapter, House of Gordon (Boss H.O.G.)
Where 4 Scotsmen gather there'll usually be a fifth.
7/5 of the world's population have a difficult time with fractions.
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