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4th April 09, 07:59 PM
#1
 Originally Posted by Nanook
People today are sold on silly little comparatively low labour features such as bright and quirky coloured linings (the rage among City bankers), buttons with holes on the cuff--- a , in general, silly feature that most master tailors would not have bothered with--- and a number of idiosyncracies that are demanded as visible traits to distinguish the one jacket against another.
For those who may not have had experience with bespoke tailoring, lining material is inevitably chosen by the customer-- as far as practical cuff buttons are concerned, I believe this practice to be nearly universal along the 'Row, with the possible exception of Anderson & Sheppard. Many gentlemen tuck their hankie up their sleeve, and an opening cuff makes this much easier to do; it also allows one to show a bit more cuff, something Percy Blakeney, Bart., would have approved of I'm sure. Lining a suit isn't free of labour costs, and cuffs that actually button, as opposed to stitching three or four buttons on a sleeve, costs as much as a decent Jermyn Street shirt.
As far as this being something the "master tailors would not have bothered with" it is exactly this sort of "silly little...feature" that sets the master tailor apart from the suit factories that turn out suits that often only fit where they touch.
Because these features aren't generally available on the suits sold in the men's department of your local department store, those that desire them are willing to pay whatever it costs to have what they want, ie: a quality suit.
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2nd April 09, 02:54 PM
#2
Several members of my family run small businesses of one sort or another, and I have seen first hand what Rocky is talking about with the overhead eating up most and sometimes all of the profit for the owners. I don't begrudge the kiltmakers' prices, they actually seem reasonable, I do have to afford what I can afford, on the other hand. It's not always so clear cut and black and white in the grand kabuki dance of buying a kilt, but such is life.
Last edited by Bugbear; 2nd April 09 at 02:59 PM.
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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2nd April 09, 02:54 PM
#3
When I was a teen, I told my dad (an attorney who owned his own firm) that I didn't want to be an attorney b/c he worked 80 hours a week.
Now that I own my own business (along with Kelly) and work just as hard, he laughs at me. 'I thought you didn't want to work that hard to earn a living?' 
Owning a business takes a 'certain kind' of person who loves to work and has an understanding wife / S.O. / Family.
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2nd April 09, 03:17 PM
#4
Thanks Rocky, for weighing in on this. I wondered if you would take the time to comment.
Not that I'm encouraging you to raise your prices, but given that laundry list of expenses it's a wonder you can make a living.
I know from firsthand experience that you frequently answer email at 10:00 p.m. or later, just to get done what needs to be done.
I tried on the new kilt last night and it fits great. Pictures to follow soon.
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2nd April 09, 03:34 PM
#5
As has been stated here, you have to really love it to want to 'give it a go'. I can't speak for Robert and Steve and Matt, but I'm pretty sure they feel the same way about it that I do.
I'm not trying to make this thread 'all about me', so I'll let others weigh in as well.
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2nd April 09, 03:43 PM
#6
I agree with what has been said. You probably deserve more for what you do. I sure wish I could afford one of those hand made kilts....
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2nd April 09, 03:49 PM
#7
A couple of years ago when I wasn't working, I made a couple of kilts. I enjoyed it. I thought to myself..."maybe I could be a kiltmaker". Then I sat down and started crunching numbers, much like what I just wrote out, here.
Upshot was, I kept looking for IT work.
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2nd April 09, 04:26 PM
#8
This is excellent information. Thanks! :thumbsup:
-Elliott
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2nd April 09, 04:36 PM
#9
Not me Boyo. I've tried running my own business before. Back then I had stars in my eye's and was driving around looking at million dollar homes. PFFFFFTTT yeah right. I swear the world operates to make it hard or impossible to have your own business. You really have to love what you do. My hats off to you kilt makers. I may moan and groan about the jones but I'll never aim it at you guys. YOU GUYS ROCK !!!
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3rd April 09, 06:44 AM
#10
Alan H, thanks for the review. I for one appreciate your examples of why kilts are not cheap--unless you want a cheap kilt. And I don't want a cheap kilt because cheap kilts look . . . you know!
It's tempting opt for the lesser items--and sometimes we do that--but a kilt is like a pair of glasses. When you buy new glasses, there are many frames to choose from. Some are cheap and look it, and others are expensive. And wouldn't you know it! the ones that look best are not the cheap ones. However, a pair of glasses is so important to one's overall look--and you only buy one or two--that you dare not just get the cheap pair.
Same with a kilt. Unless you're only using it for swamping out the septic tank or highland sports events, you really don't want to look like a characature of a kilted gentleman--you want to look like a well turned out kilted gentleman. At least I do.
And a person who can turn out a well--tailored kilt is a true craftsman. And it takes lots of time to make a kilt. And the materials are not cheap. So, there you are.
I have just bought some very nice tartan wool, and I will soon--after saving my pennies for a couple more months--pay an expert kiltmaker to craft a fine kilt for me. It's worth the wait and worth the cost.
Thanks again, Alan.
Jim Killman
Writer, Philosopher, Teacher of English and Math, Soldier of Fortune, Bon Vivant, Heart Transplant Recipient, Knight of St. Andrew (among other knighthoods)
Freedom is not free, but the US Marine Corps will pay most of your share.
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