Kilt inspired Skirt (help please!)

**Standard** · 10th January 10, 08:11 PM

Ali first let me say welcome back, we've missed you. Since I have no experience sewing a kilt I'll just add my comment that the suggestion of one apron pleated and the other not pleated sounds like a good way to go. It would certainly add a bit of versatility to the garment, and would (I think) help cut out some of the bulk in the front. Can't wait to see the pictures of what you come up with.

**Dixiecat** · 11th January 10, 08:57 AM

http://www.whirlingturban.com/circleskirts.htm

What makes me think that this is actually a circle skirt joined to the shaped yoke is that the hem seems to be very full. Compare the hem with the hipline which is quite form fitting and the skirt part seems almost smooth at the seam line there.

I can see why you want to copy it. It's a lovely skirt.

**vorpallemur** · 11th January 10, 04:27 PM

Originally Posted by Dixiecat

http://www.whirlingturban.com/circleskirts.htm

What makes me think that this is actually a circle skirt joined to the shaped yoke is that the hem seems to be very full. Compare the hem with the hipline which is quite form fitting and the skirt part seems almost smooth at the seam line there.

I can see why you want to copy it. It's a lovely skirt.

Yeah, I trhink dixiecat is right. Fitted, shaped, yoke, with a cut-out circle skirt attached to the bottom.

**Oddern** · 8th January 10, 05:43 AM

I have used these straps on a girls kilt for my daugther: http://cgi.ebay.com/Skirt-BUCKLES-an...item2a03d7864e

**Mac Ghille Sheathanaich** · 8th January 10, 06:17 AM

I buy buckles for the kilts I make at Tandy's. they have a good selection of different styles to choose from. also, paw through their scrap leather bins. Chances are that you'll find something light weight enough to cut straps and the sew-on buckle tabs with. Until I bought my strap slitter, I just used a straightedge and an exacto knife to cut kilt straps. A rotary head leather punch is pretty ham-dandy too.

I make leather buckle tabs rather than fabric ones. One, they can't be seen anyway when wearing the garment; and Two, they are much more durable and easier to take off and move if necessary.

Finding a tartan fabric at JoAnn's might be a bit tough. Ours has gotten rid of all the bolts of tartan they had which were poly/cotton; in lieu of spring fabrics. Wrong time of the year to be looking for fall/winter fabrics, unless you can stumble on to a close-out, which is still possible.

Regards aye,

T.

**Dixiecat** · 8th January 10, 08:53 AM

--is there a specific side it should buckle on for women?

Nope. Just a tradition saying the left side, but who cares? Putting fastenings on the left for mostly right-handed women is just silly. Put your buckles on the side that makes most sense for you. If you're left-handed, on the left, if you're right-handed, on the right.

Don't forget, pictures or it never happened.

**ChattanCat** · 8th January 10, 04:18 PM

Hi Ali,
I would baste the pleats first before pressing. To have pleats that fall straight and don;t flare is to keep the same width and the same edge all the way down each pleat. The best way to assure you are pressing each pleat to the same width with the tartan element centered is to baste first, measuring each pleat to assure correct width and centered. Are you sewing the fell (top of skirt to hips)?

Pressing a wool/nylon I am not sure of but you need to press like others have said, pressing cloth and don't drag the iron, pick and press.

Cheers,

**Squeaky McMurdo** · 8th January 10, 05:29 PM

All the irons I've used have had a setting for blends with nylon in them, yours might too. I think following the same procedure on a lower setting would work.

When in doubt...maybe test iron on a scrap piece or in an inconspicuous place first.

**ChattanCat** · 8th January 10, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by Squeaky McMurdo

All the irons I've used have had a setting for blends with nylon in them, yours might too. I think following the same procedure on a lower setting would work.

When in doubt...maybe test iron on a scrap piece or in an inconspicuous place first.

I agree, lower settings will work with wool. It is pressure and heat that molds the wool and sets the knife edge.

**Pleater** · 8th January 10, 06:06 PM

The wool Nylon mix might be tricky - you don't want to melt and weld the Nylon fibres into a scratchy fold, so some experimentation with fabric scraps will be necessary.

Lower temperature on the iron, less pressure on the folds, more care not to polish the surface, pressing from the back all the time should give the right results.

I press in the folds for the outer part of the pleats, then fold them and baste the lower edge and at hip level, then press the inner folds in gently, so as not to press in impressions of the folds underneath.

Then I work on the aprons, shaping their edges and pressing the large under apron pleats. Those pleats are essential and should not be skimped, as they enable sitting down without the aprons sliding apart.

Depending on your shape you might find that you need to put a couple of darts in the aprons to get a good fit. They do not have to overlap - it is better if they don't as that prevents bumps in the waistline.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: