kiltwearing advice from 1936

[Jack Daw]

From the 'The Scottish National Dress', for Daywear, I could not ignore the following, "...hair sporrans with silver or metal tops are unsuitable for wear with day dress."

[creagdhubh]

Oh dear... how, er... sad.

Scott,

Did you happen to read my clarification? Simple and unobtrusive in the manner of not 'piling on' of the gaudy accroutements one often sees many wearing with their Highland evening attire. I am quite fond of tartan, white, and scarlet waistcoats worn with my regulation doublet. I am also quite interested in the sherriffmuir, montrose, and kenmore doublets-all made in colored velvet, and complete with a lace jabot and cuffs. Recently, a member on this forum informed me of a unique history of tartan doublets being worn amongst kinsmen in his clan and provided photos-I am very fond of that fashion as well. So, my evening attire presently is far from boring, or simple, in the Prince Charlie coatee sort of way, and is ever expanding and constantly evolving (yet staying within the confines of tradition and good taste).

Cheers mate!

[creagdhubh]

Levees were/are gatherings of gentlemen held by the Monarch or his depute. Gentlemen would be presented to the Monarch at such occasions (similar to ladies being presented at Court--court being the Royal Court, and not a court of law).

There were/are strict regulations regarding dress to be worn at HM's Courts and Levees ( and State Balls and Dinners etc.) The last regulations, published by the Lord Chamberlain in 1937, stipulate the following for Highland Court Dress:

Dress DOUBLET (not necessarily buttoned) of velvet, cloth (any dark
colour) or tartan.
WAISTCOAT (if Doublet not worn buttoned up) of velvet, cloth (any
colour) or tartan - cut high.
Dress KILT.
Dress HOSE.
PLAID (either "Shoulder" - worn long round body and over left
shoulder, or "Belted" - worn on left shoulder and round waist).
SHOULDER BROOCH for Plaid.
Dress SPORRAN, any pattern, of hair, fur, or skin.
Dress SPORRAN STRAP or CHAIN, any pattern.
Highland basket hilted SWORD, black leather (or metal mounted)
Scabbard.
CROSS BELT of leather (or metal mounted) for carrying the sword worn
over right shoulder.
Dress DIRK.
WAIST BELT of leather (or metal mounted) with buckle, for carrying
Dirk. (This is optional, as Dirk can be carried on belt worn under
Waistcoat or Doublet).
Dress "SKEAN DHU" worn in hose.
PIN for apron of kilt.
JABOT, lace (lace, silk, satin or lawn stock).
CUFFS, lace.
Dress SHOES (with buckle), or brogues, black leather, for evening
wear, buckle optional.
HIGHLAND BONNET - crest or badge worn in it - with Feather or
Feathers for those entitled to them.
Note.-Highland Pistols and Powder Horn may be worn.
Gloves are not worn.

Wonderful! I love it! Thanks for posting. What does the 'cut high' part mean with regards to the waistcoat? Does that mean a five instead of three button waistcoat? I have typically only seen a five button waistcoat, to be worn for formal occassions, worn with a open sheriffmuir doublet. Are there any other evening doublets or jackets it would be acceptable to wear with? I can't see it being worn with regulation doublet-just my opinion. Also, what do you think about a five button (staghorn) waistcoat, with our without lapels, worn under a tweed daywear jacket? I have seen this done within my own clan and I must say, it looks quite smart. I would of course keep the solid color hose, or hose with an Argyll/tartan top, for daywear-no diced or tartan hose for daywear! Thanks for your advice.

Slainte,

[Bugbear]

Ok, here's what I noticed on this one.

"Patent brogues, either lacing or buckling, as illustrated, are most usual, but plain patent court shoes with buckles are sometimes used. (Three styles
of shoes are shown, lowcut loafers with nonfuctional buckles, Ghillies with buckles, and Mary Jane style with buckles.)"


"lowcut loafers with nonfuctional buckles," in 1936.

I'm guessing "plain patent court shoes" are basically evening pumps with buckles instead of bows?

[creagdhubh]

Ok, here's what I noticed on this one.

"Patent brogues, either lacing or buckling, as illustrated, are most usual, but plain patent court shoes with buckles are sometimes used. (Three styles
of shoes are shown, lowcut loafers with nonfuctional buckles, Ghillies with buckles, and Mary Jane style with buckles.)"


"lowcut loafers with nonfuctional buckles," in 1936.

I'm guessing "plain patent court shoes" are basically evening pumps with buckles instead of bows?

Yes, I think you are correct. I'm attempting to affix a pair of sterling silver, thistle motif buckles to a pair of patent leather pumps from Brooks Brothers now, that only have a bit of grosgrain ribbon (in bows) on the toes. I think they would look superb with diced hose, especially red and white. Wish me luck! HA! Photos will follow.

[OC Richard]

"lowcut loafers with nonfuctional buckles," in 1936.

In 1836 too.

There are numerous paintings of military men wearing these in the 1830's up until 1900.

Though nowadays the military wear Mary Jane style shoes with diced full hose, in the 19th century it was usually these "buckle loafers" as I call them.

Here are two officers of the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, in the 1890s, the one on the left in Review Order, the one on the right in Levee Dress.



Here's a civilian wearing similar in 1860:



And civilians wearing them, though a bit higher cut, in the late 1860s:





and here are my reproduction of these, made from ordinary loafers: