How long does it take to make a kilt?

[Riverkilt]

I think what some folks don't yet understand is that there is a big difference between how the instructors at the Keith Kilt School teach students to hand sew kilts and the methods used by kiltmakers who never attended such a school or apprenticed under someone who never attended such a school.

For sure its a controversial issue among kiltmakers. Those trained in the old ways call other methods "manufactured method" or "tailored method."

Ironically, one big difference seems to be the use of pins. My kiltmaker once wrote me, "pins are something I never use." That is because she was taught to hand sew kilts without the use of pins.

Your mileage may differ. While kilts acceptable to us may be sewn up in many different manners - both on machines and with differing methods of hand sewing - the members of the Traditional Kiltmakers Guild don't use pins and they consider that a hallmark of their craft.

What I can't figure out is if using pins speeds up kiltmaking, or slows it down due to putting them in and taking them out.

Myself - I remain amazed that a hand sewn kilt can be so well made and the tartan so well aligned without the use of pins. For me, that's a mark of incredible craftsmanship.

[fluter]

What I can't figure out is if using pins speeds up kiltmaking, or slows it down due to putting them in and taking them out.

That's easily answered.

If you're as good as Elsie Stuehmeyer or Kathy Lare, then excess pins would merely slow you down. What Tartan Tess is saying is that in Elsie's method, a single pin is used. Elsie and Kathy were trained as professionals, so speed was of the essence.

I work on a more mundane level, so it's likely that a few extra pins will speed up my work, by avoiding having to re-sew pleats. My stitching technique still has to be good, but my accuracy is not up to a full-time kiltmaker with decades of experience.

[Tartan Tess]

I have taken a class once from Elsie herself and twice from her apprentices.
I think the mystery lies in when you use the pin.
We NEVER use pins to tack down the pleats to iron or sew. Only use them to mark where the waist or hip mark on the tartan needs to be folded.

[Kiltman]

Back to the question at hand. For me it takes about 30 hrs. to do a hand sewn kilt. To be truthful I have never actually measured the time. Time appears to me of less importance than the quality of the kilt.

[bricelythgoe]

I appreciate all your comments.


Allow me to pose another, since my original question is not getting much attention. How much time does using a sewing machine save?

Brice

[Paul Henry]

Brice, the honest is it's hard to say, sorry!

Machine sewn kilts are different from hand sewn ones , certain things are easier to hand sew - like almost invisable fell stitching ( and matching up the lines) or blind stitching a hem , and certain things are easier by machine- like sewing through many layers at the waistband or long runs of straight sewing.

I've made both types and I tend to use a machine for the linen/cotton/canvas types which are usually 5 or 6 yard kilts, and hand sewing for the the more traditional wool 8 yard one. I can easily finish a machine stitched one of this type within a day's work from start to finish( including edge stitching all the pleat edges ,inside and out), but I wouldn't really compare it to the handsewn one ( not better - just different)

[bricelythgoe]

Brice, the honest is it's hard to say, sorry!

Machine sewn kilts are different from hand sewn ones , certain things are easier to hand sew - like almost invisable fell stitching ( and matching up the lines) or blind stitching a hem , and certain things are easier by machine- like sewing through many layers at the waistband or long runs of straight sewing.

I've made both types and I tend to use a machine for the linen/cotton/canvas types which are usually 5 or 6 yard kilts, and hand sewing for the the more traditional wool 8 yard one. I can easily finish a machine stitched one of this type within a day's work from start to finish( including edge stitching all the pleat edges ,inside and out), but I wouldn't really compare it to the handsewn one ( not better - just different)

That is the exact answer I am looking for! Thank you!

PM Sent as well.

[sutherland]

Very interesting chat on time taking, altough the pin thing has got me bugged, tailors do not use pins, they tack and baste, dressmakers use pins. Thanks had to get that off my chest.

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Very interesting chat on time taking, altough the pin thing has got me bugged, tailors do not use pins, they tack and baste, dressmakers use pins. Thanks had to get that off my chest.

I must make traditional highland DRESS then...

I use pins and basting and anything I need to to make the finished kilt accurate and well made.

[Dixiecat]

Very interesting chat on time taking, altough the pin thing has got me bugged, tailors do not use pins, they tack and baste, dressmakers use pins. Thanks had to get that off my chest.

Then you obviously don't know dressmaking....or tailoring.