Highland Evening Doublet made of Strome Tartan

**creagdhubh** · 23rd June 10, 06:42 PM

Wow, Sandy, thank you so much for posting the other multitude of tartan doublets! I really have gained considerable insight into how to properly wear a tartan doublet, and to pull it off with great panache, grace, and style! The look is fiercely striking, bold, and extremely pleasing to the eye-in my opinion. The more that I see the lovely "casual" look of the tartan doublet, I should say, in the cut of an Argyll jacket, coatee, or something along those lines, the more that I like it.

Like you mentioned earlier, having a tartan doublet tailored in that particular relaxed, yet still very formal, style, tends to be more casual yes, but also more versatile it seems. Of course I would never wear the doublet for day attire (in terms of versatility), but I like that fact that for evening wear, I can decide to pair the doublet up with my tartan waistcoats for an even more striking look, just as you have done! I especially like how you wore a modern shade of your tartan in your waistcoat, with the more muted (or ancient, not sure mate?) shade of your doublet and kilt-absolutely superb, just superb Sandy! Thank you so much for posting the montage of tartan doublets-both in action, and inactive on the hanger.

Slainte,

**artificer** · 23rd June 10, 06:49 PM

Originally Posted by JSFMACLJR

These two doublets are without a doubt the nicest tartan doublets I've seen! Funny they both belong to Stewarts...cousins at that!

Both were made in London by Meyer & Mortimer.

The seaming and matching on those doublets is nothing short of art! Wonderful and a delight to behold. Thank you for adding something else to my ever growing list of 'must haves'.

**wildrover** · 24th June 10, 08:03 AM

Kyle:

Do it, definitely. My opinions...and they are nothing more than opinions...

-Cut on the bias, for sure
-Bespoke, definitely...for something this unique and formal, get it custom.
-Waistcoat and jacket have a different 'hang' to the tartan, so while I think a solid color waistcoat might contrast better, both in tartan on the bias would work.
-Matching the tartan on all three pieces really depends on the tartan, I think. The tartan worn by Sir Malcolm MacGregor of MacGregor is very simple and IMHO I don't think it works as well as some of the other pictures in your original post. Honestly, I think a contrast works better...shown by Sandy's waistcoat and on the jacket itself, and in one of your photos which I'll repost in a moment.

Personally, I think that tartan is too boldly contrasting and too simple for this outfit to work aesthetically well.

Figure to the viewer's far left, John Chisholm, painted by Kenneth Macleay.

A completely different tartan, here. Also, note that visually the tartan is broken up by the crossbelt, buckles, dirk, hair sporran, brooch and plaid (the angle being different, and the folds in it, help). The hose being different than the rest also helps.

Figure to the viewer's right, Donald MacNaghton, painted by Kenneth Macleay.

To my eye, this is on the fine line between working well and too much. Again note the contrasting hose, but IMHO it would look better with greater contrast between waistcoat and jacket, or with more ornamentation on the pieces themselves. Imaging this with dark, solid color lapels.

Tartan doublet from the early 19th-century.

Of the pictures you've posted, I like the color contrast here the best. If this is all indeed the same tartan, the forearms make excellent use of contrast in the sett to stand out against the kilt--note the gold in the tartan on the outside of the forearm, and the same part of the sett was used to make the cuff. The black stitching on the torso, and the buttons, add quality contrast to the outfit.

The so-called, "Appin" doublet with velvet lapels and pocket flaps, made here by Highland Clans.

If Hugh Hefner wore a kilt and tartan doublet, I imagine it would look like this. If you don't go with the more formal look of the jacket in the above photo, go with this look...it's a modern look, and appears to be able to pull double duty as very formal or casually formal (I am assuming there is a distinction!). As I said earlier, the contrast built in to the piece looks good...IMHO a perfect alternative to the crossbelt/dirk/waist plate etc. that I think make the outfit to viewer's left in the second photo work so well.

This, and the other from the 19th century, stand out to my eye by virtue of the high collar and the tight cut. If you're in good (and stable) shape, this would look killer. Sorry, I have no idea if it would be considered costume or not...but of the pictures here, if you were able to pull of something like the 1st 19th century doublet, in a 21st century style, I suspect your wife will suddenly become very territorial

.

As a final note, again, this is an opinion...I do think, if the jacket and waistcoat have too low a cut in front, they tend to unbalance one's figure and the closure draws attention to belly, rather than balanced torso or chest.

This is potentially quite a project...take a lot of time, make sure it comes out looking the best it possibly can, to make you look as good as you possibly can. The result will be worth it!

Good luck, and the discussion isn't boring. I'd like to hear more about what you decide on, and Sandy's input.

-Sean

**creagdhubh** · 24th June 10, 12:51 PM

Sean,

Thank you so much for your detailed response, suggestions, and advice pertaining to my new venture. I will take all of your wonderful points into consideration as I begin the process of having my own bespoke tartan evening doublet made. Thanks again for taking the time to help me out, it is much appreciated indeed!

Yours aye,

**piperdbh** · 24th June 10, 01:08 PM

I have a better idea. While you're deciding on which style and tartan to have doublet made from, why don't you send me a black Sheriffmuir? When you get the tartan one, you won't have any need for a black one, and I've been wanting one in the worst way.

Sounds like a good idea to me, at least.

**creagdhubh** · 24th June 10, 01:35 PM

Originally Posted by piperdbh

I have a better idea. While you're deciding on which style and tartan to have doublet made from, why don't you send me a black Sheriffmuir? When you get the tartan one, you won't have any need for a black one, and I've been wanting one in the worst way.

Sounds like a good idea to me, at least.

LOL! Yeah right mate, I don't think so!

I actually don't own a Sheriffmuir doublet in black barathea, I own a Regulation doublet in black barathea from Kinloch-Anderson. Nice try though, I'll give you that.

Aye,

**fluter** · 24th June 10, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by wildrover

Kyle:

The so-called, "Appin" doublet with velvet lapels and pocket flaps, made here by Highland Clans.
If Hugh Hefner wore a kilt and tartan doublet, I imagine it would look like this.

<chortle> You do know that's Sandy's doublet, don't you.

**creagdhubh** · 24th June 10, 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by fluter

<chortle> You do know that's Sandy's doublet, don't you.

Quite right!

**piperdbh** · 24th June 10, 02:56 PM

Originally Posted by creagdhubh

LOL! Yeah right mate, I don't think so!

I actually don't own a Sheriffmuir doublet in black barathea, I own a Regulation doublet in black barathea from Kinloch-Anderson. Nice try though, I'll give you that.

Aye,

Well, I tried.

**MacMillan of Rathdown** · 24th June 10, 04:00 PM

While the red tartans do look smashing, probably one of the best tartan suits I've seen is that worn by McKerrill of Hillhouse. Sandy, can you post a picture?

In tailoring, as in life, you get what you pay for. As big a fan as I am of Stewart Christie, I'll probably bite the bullet (a dum-dum, I'm sure) and opt for M&M in London when I can't hold off the tartan doublet & waistcoat impulse any longer.