Bespeaking of Bespoke - what is your experience?

[Downunder Kilt]

You can still get that done in a myriad of asian cities from India to Indonesia, though it costs a little more these days. Recently in Indonesia I went to a tailor with photos of original football club jacket dating from the 1980's. He measured me, took down all the details. The jacket included some detailed leather embroidery. Had it not been for that I could have had it in 3 days.
It would now take 5 days but he would send it to me in Australia, no extra cost. I received in Australia 10 days after he measured me. Cost A$150.00, to buy in Australia A$600.00

[creagdhubh]

I chose to purchase a Regulation Doublet from MacKenzie Frain. My reason for chosing 'Made to Measure' was a mix of wanting a custom garment and not wanting to pay full 'Bespoke' price. It also came down to the fact that the 'MtM' RD @ MF was cheaper than 'off the peg' sizes at the others I'd considered. I ended up buying the whole outfit from MF as well to save on time, money and shipping.



The method I used was a long one. I started with thinking of buying everything from my previous kiltmaker (Geoffrey Tailor). I then decided to look at other quality kiltmakers as mentioned on this board as well as other Internet research. As previously mentioned, I then came across the fact that most kiltmakers 'off the peg' version of the Regulation Doublet was quite pricey vs their prices for the PC.

Since I was buying this outfit for my wedding, and wanted something special, I chose MacKenzie Frain as the maker for my RD. Reading a review of one purchased by XMS'er MacMillan of Rathdown sealed the deal. Now, I was on the hunt for a kiltmaker for my Black Stewart. I narrowed it down to:

- Geoffrey Tailor - My first kilt as an adult was made by GT, so I felt comfortable with their work.
- MacKenzie Frain - Considered the package deal, and the saving on time, money & shipping.
- Barbara from XMS - No reply to my query asking to have my Kilt made by her (my *only* choice outside Scotland).
- Kinloch Anderson - A bit pricey, so decided not to go with them.
- Manley Richardson (via Scotweb) - Liked the custom touches that are offered, but again a wee bit pricey.
- Hector Russell - I can't remember why I didn't go with them now. That was back in Jan-Feb timeframe.
- Slanj Kilts - Almost went with the 'kiltmaker to the stars'. I'll probably get another made by them.



I'd like to mention that it turns out that 'MacKenzie Frain' outsources their kiltmaking to 'House of Tartan' or they are in fact the same company - I was never able to figure this out one way or the other myself. My original GT kilt was made with the measurements by Hugh @ one of the Southern Scottish Games that GT frequents - fit like a glove in length and waist size. This included the widening of my mid section over the years until I am at the first hole on the belts. It's held up really well over the last 11 years. The pleats have held their edge, I think I've had it dry cleaned twice in that time and there doesn't appear to be any fading or other issues. The Prince Charlie Jacket/Waistcoat has also held up over the years. It was 'off the peg' and I ended up switching it out for the next size up when I went to Scotland a short time later.

The MF/HoT kilt is very nice, but I would not order from them again. I sent MF a ton of measurements for the RD jacket/waistcoat and it fits perfectly. The kilt however not so much; the length is spot on, but the waist measurement is wayyyyyy off. I have the belts on the *last* hole, and it barely sits on me. This after I made sure to ask that the measurement I gave them to fit in the middle of the belts as to allow for weight gain/loss. As it is now, if I lose anything from my mid section, I won't be able to wear the damn thing. As a result of this mistake on their part, the front apron is also too far on the right side and my kilt pin is a good two inches over from where it should reside.

It's very hard to make an educated purchase with something like this, since usually when you buy a kilt and it turns out wrong, you're stuck with the damn thing.

You get what you pay for these days. I currently own 3 tweed day jackets with matching waistcoats, and a regulation doublet with matching waistcoat in black barathea - all ordered from Kinloch-Anderson in Leith, Scotland. They are all bespoke and I wouldn't have it any other way - well worth the money and the time in my honest opinion.

Well said Sandy and Scott!

Cheers,

[saxandpipes]

No experience to bespeak of as far as kilts are concerned, but I have 3 bespoke shirts which I had made while passing through Singapore. They weren't cheap but the workmanship is excellent, they fit perfectly, of course, and the fabrics are beautiful (I chose them myself). I can't afford to do it every time I pass through Singapore/Hong Kong etc. but I would recommend it if you have the money.

I wasn't sure how they would turn out, so was reluctant to go for a suit or anything too extravagant in the way of spending, but after my initial experience, I wouldn't hesitate to get them to make me something more complicated.

Only thing as far as Singapore is concerned... they can be very persuasive salespeople (off-putting for some), but you should be quite prepared to bargain (and start off with saying you only want one shirt/suit/etc. that way you will only end up with 3!) (plus a camera lens, and a banquet for breakfast...)

Cheers,

Michael

[saxandpipes]

...I currently own 3 tweed day jackets with matching waistcoats, and a regulation doublet with matching waistcoat in black barathea - all ordered from Kinloch-Anderson in Leith, Scotland. They are all bespoke and I wouldn't have it any other way - well worth the money and the time in my honest opinion...

I don't know if I would consider something "ordered" (online, over the phone) to be bespoke. I think it really makes a difference to have the tailor take your measurements, check fitting etc. There's really something nice about walking into a tailor's, going through fabric samples, being measured by a craftsman, making you feel like the only person that matters at that point in time... Not to mention free drinks! ;)

To me its just a different experience.

Cheers,

Michael

[Downunder Kilt]

To me bespoke is the making of a garment from scratch, that includes the making and cutting of a new pattern for the customers specifications and measurements, the extra length, pin tucks, width of lapels etc, not the altering of an existing pattern or the altering of a stock garment.

In my eyes the changing of buttons, cuffs. epaulettes (in the case of kilt jackets) is not bespoke nor is the altering of lengths or widths.