February - Tartan of the Month

[chewse]

X, as you were the only one to answer, you win

Here's something that shouldn't be too difficult.

Fighadair - and this one shouldn't be too difficult!!! Ok, I'm trying to keep up...

[figheadair]

According to the tartan notes, the tartan is restricted and may only be worn by those of the name Mar and those granted permission to wear it by the Countess of Mar. That's different from a clan chief adopting an existing tartan to represent his clan while leaving its status otherwise unchanged. Members of the Royal Regiment of Scotland don't need the Duke of Argyll's permission to wear their tartan. Of course, I guess you could say the Red Mar tartan was an "orphan" until the Countess of Mar adopted it, but I don't see how the Countess of Mar can claim rights akin to copyright on the pattern, when it was created over 250 years ago by an unknown weaver.

You're absolutely right about the ability to restrict this sett. Someone has misinformed the Chief which is strange as it was me that recommended the sett to her and I would have been quite explicit about her inability to control the tartan. She was mote taken by the idea of the Tribe adopting something old rather than 'inventing' a new one. Whilst she can pronounce on its use as Red Mar that obviously doesn't stop anyone wearing it as an unnamed C18th sett. Years ago, probably before it was adopted by the Countess, I made someone a joined plaid in this tartan.

Regarding the cloth, it seems rather ordinary to me. The colors resemble other 18th-century tartans. I see folds and a few flaws, the aforementioned initials, and a hem on the top (according to the orientation of the pictures) sewn with red thread. On the right is a rather narrow red herringbone selvage. I'm guessing the cloth has been cut on the right side. If the right side was also a selvage, that would be unusual, as there is no herringbone pattern, and the weft pattern isn't centered. However, the dimensions given in the tartan notes would suggest that this was just one half of a plaid. Or perhaps a philabeg, as it isn't attached to the other half.

You're doing well although you've made one major mis-diagnosis. I'll let this run a while longer as there are things yet to determine.

[Morris at Heathfield]

Is my major misdiagnosis that, after all these old tartan pieces I've seen, I'm still thinking of the way modern tartans are woven? It occurred to me after I typed that last post that, if a plaid were woven single-width, then cut in half weftwise, and the two halves joined along one selvage, in order to preserve the tartan pattern, it wouldn't make sense to center the tartan pattern on the loom. Instead, one would want one selvage to occur on the edge of a check and the other to occur right in the middle of a check.

I know I've read all about it before (and seen photographs), but for some reason I got it confused with the way modern kilts are made from double-width fabric.

I still think it's half a plaid or a philabeg. On closer inspection I see two or three red threads running across the top of the piece. I'm assuming the thread at the "C" is where the fabric is hemmed, but the hem is not exactly visible from this side. Is the "IC" intended to be visible when the piece is worn? The way I visualize it, the initials would be on the left apron when worn.

[figheadair]

Is my major misdiagnosis that, after all these old tartan pieces I've seen, I'm still thinking of the way modern tartans are woven?

Yes

It occurred to me after I typed that last post that, if a plaid were woven single-width, then cut in half weftwise, and the two halves joined along one selvage, in order to preserve the tartan pattern, it wouldn't make sense to center the tartan pattern on the loom. Instead, one would want one selvage to occur on the edge of a check and the other to occur right in the middle of a check.

Absolutely right.

I know I've read all about it before (and seen photographs), but for some reason I got it confused with the way modern kilts are made from double-width fabric.

Not all modern kilts are made from double width cloth and any 'special' is still likely to be single width cloth.

I still think it's half a plaid or a philabeg. On closer inspection I see two or three red threads running across the top of the piece.

It is a single width piece of material which is in essance what you mean by 'a half plaid or philabeg'.

I'm assuming the thread at the "C" is where the fabric is hemmed, but the hem is not exactly visible from this side. Is the "IC" intended to be visible when the piece is worn? The way I visualize it, the initials would be on the left apron when worn.

I very much doubt that this was ever worn or intended to be worn.

[figheadair]

The paper's ready to go at the end of the month. anyone else any thoughts?

[figheadair]

It's just about the end of the month so here's the answer - http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/Unn...Glenbuchat.pdf

[Downunder Kilt]

Thankyou Peter for another snippet from tartan history. I do enjoy reading your papers and although a mere begginer in reading of tartans, I do try to work out features of the samples you show in the threads and see how close I am to the conclusions that you make. At this time, not very close, but I will learn.

[xman]

Very cool!