Formal Jacket Types?

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I went out on a limb a while back and decided to get a formal doublet made up in Harris Tweed, usually a very informal cloth.

I've had a lot of fun with it!

[chrisupyonder]

That does indeed look very smart.

[davidlpope]

I much prefer the Kenmore (and even more the Balmoral pictured above) to the Montrose doublet; but the king of them all, in my opinion, is the regulation doublet. It's versatile enough to be used for black tie events as well as white tie, it is much more elegant than a PC jacket, and it can hold its own in a crowd of the other formal doublets.

What more could you ask for?

A regulation doublet in velvet...

[thescot]

I have a Montrose (double breasted) doublet, and no one--absolutely no one--looks better at a formal ball than me when I have the lace and my breachan feile all piled up with a fur sporran. Given--it's not often that I have a chance to wear it--but when I do, I look good. Even for me!

But it is not very practical. On the other hand, I wanted one, I got it, and I'm glad I did. I didin't buy it for practicality--that way lies boredom and denim--I bought it for looks, and like others above, that's what I wanted! I haven't worn it in several years, but the next time I do, no one will look better.

I would agree with davidlpope et al, though. A regulation doublet is a fine purchase and much more versatile; white or black tie, it works. You guys can wear blues and greens and other colors; I'll stick with black. I let my kilt do the talking in regards to colors.

[davidlpope]

I have a Montrose (double breasted) doublet, and no one--absolutely no one--looks better at a formal ball than me when I have the lace and my breachan feile all piled up with a fur sporran.

Spoken like the true peacock you are... Maybe we can work something out for Greenville...

[thescot]

Spoken like the true peacock you are... Maybe we can work something out for Greenville...

I can't make Greenville this year since they scheduled it for the same weekend as Rolling Thunder, i.e., Bike Week at Panama City Beach. We're riding the Harleys down. Think Wild Hogs. My buddy and I are louder than we are wild!

I do hope to see you somewhere else before Stone Mountain. Keep me posted on any games you intend to greace. Maybe Maryville Games or Blairsville? Let me know if you'll be about.

Semper fi.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

A regulation doublet in velvet...

with silk moire cuffs...

[Cygnus]

...What more could you ask for?

A regulation doublet in velvet...

with silk moire cuffs...

I had to ask...

[OC Richard]

Being the history nut I am, what I wonder about is just where all these 20th century formal jacket styles came from.

When I got into this stuff, in the 1970s, Highland Dress catalogues offered:

Prince Charlie
Montrose
Regulation
Sherrifmuir
Kenmore

and it was common to see all of them being worn at formal functions around here.

But in my Highland Dress catalogues from the 1920s and 1930s only two styles are offered, the Coatee (what we call Prince Charlie) and the Doublet or "standard doublet" (what we call a Regulation Doublet).

The Coatee (Prince Charlie) is usually mentioned as being for younger men, and indeed it must have been a new style at that time, as I can't find any earlier images of it.

The Doublet (regulation or standard) is discussed as follows in a William Anderson catalogue from the 1930s:

The Doublet is less popular than it once was, but is suitable especially for older men. To get over the objection of the rather heavy skirts we have designed a modified doublet known as the Kenmore Doublet. (It) may be made with a stand collar or with an open collar...

So here, perhaps, is the beginning of the 20th century fad for evening jackets with stand collars.

Stand collars are rare in civilian Highland dress from the mid 19th century up until the appearance of the Kenmore Doublet in the 1930s. They only appear in The Highlanders of Scotland on a couple men, on doublets which are basically civilianised military doublets which are fully buttoned up the front and have full Inverness skirts.

The most common type of jacket in The Highlanders of Scotland was this style, which was widely worn up through the 1930s and which evidently evolved into the Regulation Doublet:



It would be very cool to have this style made up. Nobody seems to make this style anymore. (Several people over the years have said that this style is offered, but as yet no one has posted a photo of one made by a current maker.)

[chrisupyonder]

Thanks for that, very interesting, not seen that style before.