DIY Tartan Waistcoat - US Army Tartan

**Paul Henry** · 19th January 12, 03:02 AM

Originally Posted by Oddern

That is a fantastic waistcoat.
I'm thinking of making me a tartan waitcoat too and I have a question maybe you can help me with. What is the purpose of making the vertical seams on the front of the waistcoat? I see that most waistcoats have them, but I can't understand why they are there. I see that your waistcoat also have these seams in the back.
Does it have anything to do with shaping the waistcoat to the body shape? couldn't that been done with the seams in the side of the waistcoat?
Skål!

I don't want to hijack the thread, but the the seams/darts in a waistcoat front are to make it fit better.What you are effectively doing is to make the front of the wiastcoat slightly bowed or rounded, the side seams don't make this difference. Some makers put seams in the back, this can reduce the ammount of cloth which is a good thing and maker a closer fit, but most commercial makers however use buckle and ties on the back which allows the it to be adjusted as required, thereby allowing a greater fit for more people.
There are lots of ways of making a waistcoat, I've seen some with 2 separate seams on each side of the front to make it fit tighter to the body,and I've seen some without any shaping, so there isn't really one way of doing it. We are all different shapes and sizes and the shaping is an attempt simpy to make it fit better, however we manage to make the shape isn't so critical.Working with tartan is always a problem is working out how to make the lines join up,but that is part of the fun!

**longhuntr74** · 19th January 12, 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by Oddern

That is a fantastic waistcoat.
I'm thinking of making me a tartan waitcoat too and I have a question maybe you can help me with. What is the purpose of making the vertical seams on the front of the waistcoat? I see that most waistcoats have them, but I can't understand why they are there. I see that your waistcoat also have these seams in the back.
Does it have anything to do with shaping the waistcoat to the body shape? couldn't that been done with the seams in the side of the waistcoat?
Skål!

Paul already did a pretty good job of answering the question. They are called "darts" and yes they are used to shape the body of the vest. In the front, it gives some fullness in the chest area and allows for a taper in the waist area. As Paul mentioned, most commercially made vests have a buckle and strap configuration in the back, but since I was making this vest for me and my measurements, I felt comfortable going for a perfect fit rather than an adjustable one.

The root of your question, I know, is that the darts "mess up" the lines and visual looks of the tartan. This is a consideration that you have to take into account as you lay out your pattern on the tartan during the initial stages of construction.

If you are fuller through the mid-section (barrel-bodied...chest and stomach approximately the same measurements), you can very likely get away without any darts...especially in the front. If that is the case, that would be my preference. Unfortunately (or I guess I should say fortunately) that was not an option for me, since I have a 44" chest and a 33/34" waist. without the darts, the vest would pull at the collar (and through the chest area) and hang loose like a maternity shirt in the stomach portion...and this is why darts are used.

**sydnie7** · 19th January 12, 10:20 AM

I'm starting a new thread with photos of pattern pieces to show vests with and w/out darts, here's the link. Hope this helps!

Darts in tartan vests

**creagdhubh** · 19th January 12, 10:32 AM

Well done Jeff! I especially like your tartan rosettes (P/M Gordon Walker wears them with his kilt at times). I was fortunate enough to have several made in Macpherson tartans a few years ago. They were purchased from Timothy and Geraldine at the House of Labhran.

Have a splendid time next weekend!

**longhuntr74** · 22nd January 12, 11:03 PM

My wife, kids, and I had a great time at the Burns dinner last night. Here is a picture of my wife and I at the end of the evening. Not the best image quality, alignment, or lighting...but it will have to do.