-
8th June 06, 09:19 PM
#31
David White,
I really like the dirk in your picture! Is it a custom blade?
-
-
8th June 06, 09:26 PM
#32
All I have right now is a battle axe. Working on making my own targe.
-
-
8th June 06, 09:48 PM
#33
Originally Posted by cloves
what are the usual diameters of targes?
Usually 19 to 20 inches in diameter.
-
-
9th June 06, 12:40 AM
#34
-
-
9th June 06, 03:50 AM
#35
targe...
The Tartans Authority has a nice article about the Targe here:
http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/...s/Weaponry.asp
Happy Reading! :mrgreen:
Cheers,
Todd
-
-
9th June 06, 04:44 AM
#36
Originally Posted by billmcc
David White,
I really like the dirk in your picture! Is it a custom blade?
Yes it is, The dirk was made by Michael "Tinker" Pearce.
Thanks
Clan Lamont!
-
-
9th June 06, 04:47 AM
#37
Originally Posted by billmcc
Usually 19 to 20 inches in diameter.
The one I made is 18". Has anyone ever seen the portrait of Lord George Murray ca. 1740? His targe is very small. I'd like to make one that size.
Clan Lamont!
-
-
9th June 06, 05:32 AM
#38
Here is Lord George Murray.
[B]Paul Murray[/B]
Kilted in Detroit! Now that's tough.... LOL
-
-
9th June 06, 05:34 AM
#39
Originally Posted by I M Kilted!
Basket hilts are cool! I was desgining one in my head, here are the materials: Damascus Steel Blade, Ebony Handle, Blued Steel Basket and Fittings with a Black leather sheath with Blued steel fittings.
That sounds like a stunning sword!! I would love to see it when it comes about!
[B]Paul Murray[/B]
Kilted in Detroit! Now that's tough.... LOL
-
-
9th June 06, 05:44 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Iolaus
What do you do for the edge, just stretch the cowhide around?
I rasp and sand the edge of the wood so it's rounded and smooth. The front piece of leather I cut so it's a few inches greater in diameter than it needs to be. I then make 1 inch triangular cuts around that diameter, so that it ends up looking like a big circular saw blade.
I then thoroughly wet the leather all around its diameter to make it pliable, then begin pulling it over and nailing it to the back. I do this by nailing at opposite sides of a "clock face" if you follow me. I.E., I'll pull the leather over and nail it at the 12 o'clock position, then 6 o'clock, then 9, then 3, etc. This will result in it being more uniform and not bulging or bunching in spots.
When it's all nailed around the back, and the leather has dried and tightened into place, I trim off the points of the "sawblade" I mentioned earlier.
The thinner back piece of leather can either lie under, or go over the nailed back front piece. The former is easier; the latter is the method seen on most originals. I also put padding - usually wool fabric - under the back leather, too, doubly thick under the arm area.
Most originals are 19" in diameter....
Brian
"They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~ Benjamin Franklin
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
|
Bookmarks