Where is the apocryphal Box Pleat manual?

[Packhound]

I've kept my mouth shut for a long time on this topic, but I'm finally going to break the silence.

Making a box pleat kilt is NOT THAT HARD. If you are just DYING to go make yourself a box pleat kilt, then do this:

1. make an x- Kilt
2. make a modified X-kilt that you don't topstitch, but rather, stitch the edges of the pleats to one another, from the inside, along the fell.
3. Go buy some good tartan and make a knife pleat kilt with Barb's book and instructions.
4. go buy some nice tartan, quit grousing and just use what you learned in kilts 1, 2, and 3 to make your own box pleat kilt.


This is EXACTLY what I did and I have now made three perfectly acceptable box pleat kilts. If I can do it, you can do it.

Alan,
That is exactly what I did (except I skipped making the knife-pleated kilt). I just combined the experience and instructions from the x-kilt with Barb's book. Basically, I stitched the pleats together by hand as box-pleats rather than knife-pleats (no big difference), did NOT cut out the pleats, did not put in hair canvas, put in buckles ala Matt Newsome, but other than that followed Barb's book for aprons, hems, etc. I am extremely pleased with the results.

[okiwen]

Quite honestly, one of the things that bother me most is the hand stitching. I have asked tailors how to do this blind stitch as she explains it and none can show me. I can see every stitch and it's not blind at all. This is where an hour with a good kilt maker would be priceless. If Barb is making a kilt every week or whatever then she has a system that is just super smooth. It is not rocket science, but it's not clicking in my brain.

[Dixiecat]

The blind hem in Barb's book is actually a modified catch stitch if I remember rightly (don't have the book in front of me). The stitch is very good for it's purpose, but it's not the 'be-all, end-all' of what you can use.

Here's a blind stitch as used by garment sewers. This is NOT the stitch you'd want to use in a kilt as the general weight and thickness of the tartan will pull too much on the stitching. Also, the sewer in the video uses a double thickness of thread, not something I'd recommend as it's too thick for the fabric she's using. And, I'd not pick up so much of the garment when blind hemming as the demonstrator does. http://www.expertvillage.com/video/2...s-hand-hem.htm

Here's a catch stitch. I've used this stitch successfully on kilts. The x's give the stitch a little stretch, perfect for wool. The stitch also can carry the weight and thickness of the tartan. Tailors generally use this stitch on coats made with melton or similar coating fabric. It also gives a bit of security if you catch your hem and break the thread, it's not all going to come down. http://www.monkeysee.com/play/2150-s...e-catch-stitch

Even if you don't use either of these stitches, hopefully the videos will help you understand better what Barb is describing in her book.

[haxtonhouse]

I would very much like to see this PDF.

[chasem]

It's coming, but we're not sure when. Barb has a lot on her plate. She's promised to mention it here when it's ready. So we're patiently waiting.

[Barb T]

Hi, lads

I'm making progress! I've drawn most of the sketches for the diagrams for the pdf on box pleating. That's the biggest hurdle. The writing is easy for me. So.....I think I can have a draft available for people to test drive at the end of Thanksgiving. Just remember that it will be a supplement to The Art of Kiltmaking and will just describe where making a box pleat kilts differs from making a knife pleated kilt. It won't be a stand-alone set of instructions.

Thanks for your patience!

[chasem]

Awesome, Barb. Thanks for the update. I may be able to give it a test drive then, looking forward to it.

[okiwen]

I look forword to this addition to my book. Thank you

[Mipi]

Bravo, Barb!

[Tetley]

Hi, lads

I'm making progress! I've drawn most of the sketches for the diagrams for the pdf on box pleating. That's the biggest hurdle. The writing is easy for me. So.....I think I can have a draft available for people to test drive at the end of Thanksgiving. Just remember that it will be a supplement to The Art of Kiltmaking and will just describe where making a box pleat kilts differs from making a knife pleated kilt. It won't be a stand-alone set of instructions.

Thanks for your patience!

Can'twaitcan'twaitcan'twait....

Thanks for your efforts here I know that it will be much appreciated.

Mark