Starting on my first true tank

[Tartan Hiker]

Here's a not-so-great photo of the finished kilt, freshly pressed. Pleat basting is still in place.



I didn't carefully keep up with the actual time spent, but I guesstimate that it took about 35 hours. Having no taper in the fell or shaping in the aprons saved a bunch of time.
I'll try to get an action shot of the kilt on its new owner this weekend at Grandfather Mountain.

Now I get to start on my Montreat box-pleat! I'm pleating to the gold stripe, so it will be very green in the rear.

[Alan H]

Nice job. That looks great!

[Barb T]

I guesstimate that it took about 35 hours.

Terrific job!!! Can't wait to see the photos of the kilt "in action".

35-40 hours is typical for a first kilt.

[Alan H]

Terrific job!!! Can't wait to see the photos of the kilt "in action".

35-40 hours is typical for a first kilt.

Mine took 47 hours and I machine-sewed some of it.. I documented it to death on this board!

[longhuntr74]

Firstly, let me start out by saying how informative this thread has been. I don't have a copy of Barb's book (YET!!!), but I'm already starting to understand how to make a kilt and do the math, etc, etc. Superb discussion. The frustrating part for me is that I can't see the darned pics due to these government computer filters!!!!

I've been sewing various things for years and am really looking forward to taking on a kilt project or two when I get home!! I've done everything from tactical gear modifications, simple box design 18th century shirts, pattern making, knee breeches, sleeved and sleeveless weskits. I recently finished a completely handsewn white linen shirt and am about 50% done with a red wool weskit with fancy metallic (talking real metal lace here) trim.

For some reason, I can't comprehend what Anne is talking about here? Would you, by chance, have pics to share? (I'll hope that my commercial internet in my room comes back up so I can view them!!)

These days (after making and remaking a fair number of kilts for myself) I take a load of small safety pins and join up the fabric into a kilt length, then measure separately along the top edge and then the bottom edge, pinning in the pleats. Finding that the fabric is transformed into something that lies right and looks like a kilt is good - discovering that something has gone wrong at that stage means just a quick shuffle of pins and not half a day wasted.

I then separate the pieces and open out the folds by pinning through two rather than three or more layers and press the edges of the pleats from the lower edge up as far as is appropriate.

I like the advice about pressing first and Barbs discussion about the hips being the key. I know that it varies by fabric weight etc, but what is the typical factor for figuring out how many inches you would add to your actual hip measurements?

Also...I've seen discussion that typically talks about a 50/50 split between pleats and aprons. Are the aprons really that wide? I was thinking that the pleats would typically start at the left front hip and go all the way around to the right front. If so, I'd put that at more of a 65/35 split. What am I missing here? Please forgive the stupid questions...I should read Barb's book before asking questions!! My wife says I'm not allowed to buy anything "Scottish" for 60 days because I am in the process of buying a "tank" from Matt Newsome. I bet I can sneak a book by her though!!

Again...thanks all for the great discussion...and look forward to responses to my questions.

[sydnie7]

Firstly, let me start out by saying how informative this thread has been. I don't have a copy of Barb's book (YET!!!), but I'm already starting to understand how to make a kilt and do the math, etc, etc. Superb discussion. The frustrating part for me is that I can't see the darned pics due to these government computer filters!!!!

I've been sewing various things for years and am really looking forward to taking on a kilt project or two when I get home!! I've done everything from tactical gear modifications, simple box design 18th century shirts, pattern making, knee breeches, sleeved and sleeveless weskits. I recently finished a completely handsewn white linen shirt and am about 50% done with a red wool weskit with fancy metallic (talking real metal lace here) trim.

For some reason, I can't comprehend what Anne is talking about here? Would you, by chance, have pics to share? (I'll hope that my commercial internet in my room comes back up so I can view them!!)

Anne is describing her method of assembling a kilt with safety pins before any sewing occurs. Like basting a garment together for fitting purposes.

I like the advice about pressing first and Barbs discussion about the hips being the key. I know that it varies by fabric weight etc, but what is the typical factor for figuring out how many inches you would add to your actual hip measurements?

I've only ever seen the hip described as a "loose" measurement vs. the waist being "tight." Not sure there's any mathematical factor involved.

Also...I've seen discussion that typically talks about a 50/50 split between pleats and aprons. Are the aprons really that wide? I was thinking that the pleats would typically start at the left front hip and go all the way around to the right front. If so, I'd put that at more of a 65/35 split. What am I missing here? Please forgive the stupid questions...I should read Barb's book before asking questions!! My wife says I'm not allowed to buy anything "Scottish" for 60 days because I am in the process of buying a "tank" from Matt Newsome. I bet I can sneak a book by her though!!

Apron width is one of the major differences between "traditional" and "casual" kilt style. A 50/50 split is traditional. Utilikilts and the like can be as much as 75/25 pleat/apron ratio.

Again...thanks all for the great discussion...and look forward to responses to my questions.

Hope those notes help, looking forward to seeing your work!

[Pleater]

I'm afraid I don't have pictures - I will be making up some winter weight kilts before long so I will try to remember to take photos.

I find it rather difficult to work with large amounts of fabric already in pleats, to press in the edges of the pleats accurately - I find that locating the outer folds of the pleats and then pressing them in one at a time gives me greater accuracy than any other method. It also removes all the folds underneath, so there is no distortion.

It does mean, in effect, measuring a lot of things twice but it seems to work.

I think that the usual division of apron and pleats is to have a few more inches of pleat than apron, at the waist. My usual division is 18 inches of apron and 22 inches of pleat. This is reduced to being coser to 50/50 at the hips as the apron flares. That is, there is a 2 inch deep vertical infolding at waist level on each side of the apron and at the right edge of the under apron. The depth reduces to shape the edge of the apron and tapers to nothing at the hip.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Kiltman]

Congratulations on your fine work.

[kilted trucker]

Good job, Well done. Can't wait to see it on.

[Kiltboy]

Wow. Great Tartan. Can't wait to see it "in action". Congrats on the great work.