true tartan hose (not diced+lines)

[Orvis]

Some thoughts - the tartan hose with the seam up the back may have been knitted on a knitting frame, such as was used in the 18th c. and into the 19th c. The hose was knitted flat with the leg contours on each side, and then they were joined together in the rear and on the foot part by sewing them together - ergo the back seam. I don't know if anybody still has such skills or knitting frames - Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia is the only place I've ever seen a knitting frame and I don't know if anyone there practices the art. The good folk there might be able to steer you to a modern day craftsperson that does frame-knitted hose.

As to hose made from tartan cloth, I've made about 15 pair (for living history purposes) from tartan cloth. The 18th c. Highlanders were reported to have worn hose made from tartan that was of heavier weight than their plaids. I cut mine on the bias and sew them together with the twill lines vertical - this gives them lateral stretch. As to the part of the hose that fits around the ankle, I have found that it must be somewhat loose in order to get the foot through without doing damage to the seam. With a little experimentation/fitting, I've been able to size my hose so they are fairly close-fitting around the ankle while still being able to get my foot through that part. The most difficult part (for me) of making so-called "bag hose" is getting the pattern to match in the back where the seam is - I've never succeeded at it, although I've come close a few times. I would not hesitate to wear properly fitted cut-and-sewn hose with modern Highland formal wear. It is traditional and the major cost is your time and effort - not major money.

[Pleater]

It is possible to use a modern knitting machine to make the fancy leg part and the top of the foot in pattern, then to complete the foot by hand knitting, picking up the edges to make the joins.

It also means that if the foot wears out it can be remade without reknitting the whole thing.

The process is called Intarsia, and is not so fast as knitting with a machine usually is, but it is faster than hand knitting.

You can add the wooly nylon and as the stitches are made so precisely by placing the reinforcing thread in the hooks first followed by the yarn, the two do not cross and so the danger of the Nylon cutting the yarn is greatly reduced. In fact the Nylon can be seen or felt as an outer layer on the part being strengthened.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[powburn]

Wow, GBP 425 + VAT for a pair of custom tartan hose, that's amazing. My father in law had his Preston tartan hose made by Bonnie Tartan http://bit.ly/fcfK2r. There's a picture of the hose on their web site. I just went for the tartan on the cuff instead for my Middleton tartan hose.

I noticed that the Kenneth Short hose only has two diamonds round the leg, whereas Bonnie Tartan hose have three diamonds, which I think looks better. Seems they have a 10% sale going on at the moment too.