Surprises inside a custom Scottish-made kilt

[Mike S]

Rocky,
I can honestly say that if I were in the business of making Kilts, I would have the same policy as you do. Many world class craftsmen in diverse trades also have the same philosophy.

[ThistleDown]

I have five kilts made by the same kiltmaker, but over thirty to fifty years and two generations of wearers. The first of them is superbly done; the last reveals her advancing years and, sadly, declining ability. I will soon have that one re-made because it actually is the one of the lot I prefer -- if I can find a kiltmaker to take it on.

The problem is: "we simply state that we only alter kilts we made, because we know what to expect when we open them up."

Steve and Rocky -- may I include Barb in this? -- do you mean that the solution to re-building a kilt is that it be opened to its single length of tartan and re-made? So, the cost of making a kilt and the cost to take apart its ancestor?

[The Wizard of BC]

Rex,

As you can see from my threads I do try to repair kilts. I have not yet had to take one down to fabric.

If stitching of the pleats needs repair I fix the stitches.
If any component is worn beyond repair I may need to replace it.
Even the fabric itself can be patched, or darned if necessary.

If you remember this kilt ---



Well, it's the same kilt today. And that is the whole idea. It should always be the same kilt. Repaired, maintained, re-furbished if necessary, but the same kilt.

A year later this same kilt marched in a change of command ceremony. Here it is right behind the RSM's right hand. (and the RSM is in his brand new Freedom Kilt with pockets.)



I only provide the skill to the best of my ability, and the time.

And there's the rub as they say. My time cannot be donated for free. I do have to eat. So it is up to the customer to decide if the expense to repair their kilt is worth it to them.

If I am building a kilt from scratch I charge $350.00 for my labor to make a machine-stitched kilt, and $425.00 to make a hand-stitched kilt.
No repair should exceed these amounts. And that is my call. If I can't repair a kilt for less than to make a new one I won't, in good faith, take the job.

Yes, I will try to repair another makers' kilt. Not because I'm so great but for the sake of the kilt.

[ThistleDown]

Thank you, Steve. I do remember that kilt and the extreme issues it had. Mine is no-where as severe, fortunately, but I am sure we all sincerely appreciate knowing your costing parameters. I've two more that have 'shrunk' over the half-century, so I'll include them in the package and talk to you by 'phone, post and visit over the coming winter months.

Rex.ThistleDown

[The Wizard of BC]

For you Rex, I will give you my extra special employee rate. Retail + 30%

[Jock Scot]

Thank you Steve and Rocky for your interesting observations and tactful replies. I have no problem in anyone buying a less expensive kilt, I think most of us would therefore not expect a "Rolls Royce" of kilts. I do have a real problem though, with those who sell a less than perfect kilt at premium prices. This is why conversations that we are having here are so valuable in educating potential future kilt buyers.

As I donned my kilt(circa 1990's) this morning, I noticed a logo stitched into the back of the kilt. It belongs to the "Kiltmakers Association of Scotland". Duncan Chisholm-----the maker of my kilt-----was I think, a founder member of the "Kiltmakers Association" and the aim was to counter the less than perfect kilts constructed and put on sale(in Scotland), by not only those outhwith Scotland, but also kilts constructed and sold within Scotland itself, that were, then, gaining strength in the kilt maket. I know not if the Association still exists today and what success it had. Now, we can argue numbers forever, but the Scottish Tartans Authority are quoted as saying( I apologise if the words are not exact): "there are perhaps no more than ten, or perhaps, twelve authentic kiltmakers left in Scotland". I am not sure what they mean by "authentic" but it seems that you Steve have your hands on a kilt made by a less than "authentic" Scottish kiltmaker. Oh what a shame!

[ThistleDown]

Thanks for the exceptional rate. Have you ever looked at your logo from a distance, Steve? Reminds me of Alice's Cheshire Cat

Jock, I have a Chisholm kilt -- early 1980s, I think -- that doesn't have that label. I think it was Ian Chisholm who founded the trade association from within the STA, but I doubt it's around today.

[Jock Scot]

Rex.

I well remember talking to Duncan about the falling kilt making standards when my kilt was being made. It seems that their predictions were pretty much on target. His view and a correct one I think, was that if kilts were constructed down to a price for the "new wave" of kilt wearers that were coming to the fore and the inevitable result would be the swift demise of properly and traditionally constructed kilts. Leaving a very few "authentic" kilt makers left to make kilts for the wealthy. He was pretty much correct.

However, as we have seen, well constructed kilts made with modern construction methods have very sucessfully filled the gap to a great extent and at resonable prices, not only that, kilt attire from Pakistan for example, have flooded in to fill a need that the "world" are now demanding. Did the Scottish kilt makers miss a trick in the 1970's/80's/90's? Well with a few notable exceptions, yes they did. But they were not alone in mis-judging the market and perhaps they may draw some comfort, in joining the British gun trade, British car trade, British ship building, British motor bike trade and many others that are still foudering to this day (British weaving, next?) that could not change fast enough to meet a modern market. All is not lost and good new things have arrived in the world, but there are considerable dangers in building goods down to a price in the long run, I feel. Time will tell.

[ThistleDown]

All very true, Jock. I recall you and I talking years ago on this forum about the inability of most Highlanders to afford the high cost of a kilt and a' the trimmings. That has changed just within our time here with the importation of stuff made by less expensive labour. The average tcheuchter still can't afford home-grown product, however, so he hires the standarised offerings of outfitters. Those for-hire kilts are not themselves of high quality and when they are sold off it's because they are showing early wear. As is obvious by Steve's two kilts, even home-grown doesn't guarantee the kilt is the work of a journeyman or master kiltmaker in his or her prime. Most kiltmakers today are self-taught or didn't complete a proper apprenticeship program. Such a program did exist in times past and I'm sure the rebuilding of that was what Duncan and Ian were advocating with their trade association.

[denmcdough]

I feel a need to chime in, here. I have an eight-yard kilt, heavy weight, made by (actually two) Wally Catanach, and, thank God, he constructed it to perfection. The other kilt I have is from Bonnie Heather Greene and it, too, is well constructed. So thank you Steve for opening our eyes as to how a kilt should really be made.

Now, a question I have is concerning a 5 yard casual kilt, one that was made in Scotland. This has no heavy duty backing. I was upset with the construction and asked the maker why it had no support, and his reply was, "you don't need that for a casual kilt." Hmm, is that true? Maybe some forum kilt makers can add their two cents to that comment. If the kilt is less than 8 yards, is it okay to not add support? I have a feeling that it's still needed.

Your comments, please!