Best, spare-no-expense kilt to be had?

**Flotineer** · 25th March 23, 12:25 PM

Hi all -

After years (decades) of wearing hand me down band kilts, I’m looking to get a kilt made just for me. It’ll be the only time I do this, so I’d appreciate any advice about where I should go for the finest materials, and finest kiltmakers to be found today.

What should I be looking for in a once-in-a-lifetime kilt, and where should I be looking?

I’m hoping that someone can point me in the right direction!

Thanks

**Patty Logan** · 25th March 23, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by Flotineer

What should I be looking for in a once-in-a-lifetime kilt, and where should I be looking?

A once I a life time kilt? How about the for sale section here?

**kilted2000** · 25th March 23, 01:20 PM

USA Kilts or Barbara Tewksbury. Both are forum sponsors. I have kilts from both and they make excellent kilts. The cloth comes from the UK but you save on the shipping costs to the US.

**Steve Ashton** · 25th March 23, 02:01 PM

If this is to be a once-in-a-lifetime kilt then please, please, do yourself the favor of insuring that the kilt you buy fits you the way you want.

By "The Art of Kiltmaking" by Barb Tewksbury, a traditional kilt fits with the top strap cinched into the anatomical waist. There is then 2 inches of kilt above the top strap. This 2 inches is called the "Rise" and the length from the center of the top strap, down to the bottom or selvedge edge is called the "Drop". The total length of the kilt is Drop + Rise.

This is a waist height quite a bit higher than most today are used to wearing their clothing. A traditional kilt as defined by Barb T. means that the top of the kilt will be where the top of the upper strap is in this photo. In the front this will be between 3 and 4 finger widths below the bottom of the breastbone or sternum.

Please do not use the belly button as a reference when measuring as belly buttons are in soft tissue and are in different places on different men.

The bottom of a Traditional kilt as defined by "The Art of Kiltmaking" will hit you right at the top of the kneecap or patella.

And in the rear, the bottom of the sewn-down and tapered area,, which is called "The Fell", should be right at the widest part of the hips or buttocks.

And this is where most problems arise. Today, most guys are unfamiliar with how a Traditional kilt should fit and they try to wear it lower than where it was designed to be worn.
This lower waist means that the bottom of the Fell drops below the crest of the hips and cause large shower curtain folds in the back and will eventually cause the pleat stitching to fail due to sitting on the stitches.

Wearing a kilt lower than it was designed to be worn will also cause the bottom of the kilt to drop below the bottom of the knee cap.

Now, if you wish to wear your kilt lower than the Traditional height, that's perfectly OK. But let your kiltmaker know this beforehand and follow their instructions on how you would modify or change where you measure.

The secret to a well fitting kilt is communication with the person who will push the needle through the fabric. Talk to them and ensure you are both following the same sheet of music when you order.

**OC Richard** · 27th March 23, 04:45 AM

Originally Posted by Flotineer

After decades of wearing hand me down band kilts...

Yes I can relate! My first 'real' kilt, in 1976, was a band-issue one (my first two kilts were made by my grandmother, who knew nothing about kilt making).

Since that time due to some band-switching I've spent much time in various band kilts.

I should point out that all of these kilts were of the highest quality: traditional hand-sewn full-yardage kilts made from UK-woven heavy-weight 100% wool.

Originally Posted by Flotineer

I’m looking to get a kilt made, I’d appreciate any advice about where I should go for the finest materials and finest kiltmakers.

What should I be looking for in a once-in-a-lifetime kilt, and where should I be looking?

Since your band-issued kilts were probably top-quality handsewn full-yardage wool kilts, I suspect that you wouldn't be satisfied with anything less.

With the fabric, I would go with 16 ounce heavy-weight wool (like most band kilts are made from) due to kilts made from this weight looking good, hanging well, wearing well, and keeping their shape. The pleats will look great for many years as long as you don't mistreat the kilt.

Good kilting cloth of this weight is woven by Marton Mills, Lochcarron, and House of Edgar to name three.

About the yardage, I myself prefer having less than 8 yards. For me the ideal is around 6 or 7 yards. This isn't "casual" kilt territory! The leading kiltmakers from the 1920s and 1930s offered identical-quality kilts in 6, 7, and 8 yards.

The idea that a "real kilt" must have 8 yards is a modern fallacy.

Then there's the maker. There are quite a few very good kilt makers in Scotland and North America and probably elsewhere. Most of them are on FaceBook or other Social Media and/or have websites, and you can see numerous examples of their work.

I would go with a one-person bespoke kiltmaker who specialises in traditional hand-sewn kilts, rather than a big firm who produces hundreds of band kilts or wedding hire kilts. Traditional kilts have hand-sewn pleats and are constructed in the traditional way with cut-out pleats, an internal stabiliser, a reverse pleat, and so forth.

I recently had a kilt made by a woman in Scotland who did a great job for a quite reasonable price.

Due to the rules of this forum I can't promote any specific maker (unless they advertise on this forum).

**OC Richard** · 27th March 23, 04:48 AM

Originally Posted by kilted2000

USA Kilts or Barbara Tewksbury. Both are forum sponsors. I have kilts from both and they make excellent kilts. The cloth comes from the UK but you save on the shipping costs to the US.

I should point out that Barbara's kilt are traditional hand-sewn kilts, while all of the USA Kilts have machine-sewn pleats.

**Silmakhor** · 27th March 23, 06:14 AM

In addition to Barbara Tewksbury, Patti Smith may be what you're looking for. https://sites.google.com/site/kiltsbypatriciasmith/

Also, the big expense may be in terms of time, rather than $$$.

**Flotineer** · 27th March 23, 12:41 PM

Yes, the band kilts were mostly either from J Higgins or someplace in Ontario (I forget where exactly). They were nice kilts, for sure. And mostly fit right after I moved the buckles half an inch or whatever…

Which is why I’m following the “Buy once, cry once” approach this time!

Originally Posted by OC Richard

Yes I can relate! My first 'real' kilt, in 1976, was a band-issue one (my first two kilts were made by my grandmother, who knew nothing about kilt making).

Since that time due to some band-switching I've spent much time in various band kilts.

I should point out that all of these kilts were of the highest quality: traditional hand-sewn full-yardage kilts made from UK-woven heavy-weight 100% wool.

Since your band-issued kilts were probably top-quality handsewn full-yardage wool kilts, I suspect that you wouldn't be satisfied with anything less.