Avoiding the 'pleat flip'

[bricelythgoe]

Kilt Makers,

So I am about ready to purchase my next kilt know that the last debacle is out of the way. However, I need to know how to avoid getting a kilt that gets that pleat flipping on the left side. What is it that I may be doing wrong when I measure for my kilt? Is it my hip size I am doing wrong? I am a tight 40, snug 41, and loose after that. What should I get? I want to get this kilt, but I DO NOT want the pleat flipping. What would you experienced kilt makers recommend?

Brice

[slohairt]

You would want it reasonably loose. It's a measurement usually taken over worn clothing.

[Jock Scot]

I am not sure that this suggestion is possible for you,but if it were me, I would go to your chosen kilt maker and get them to take the measurements after they have discussed with you your exact requirements.

[bricelythgoe]

I am not sure that this suggestion is possible for you,but if it were me, I would go to your chosen kilt maker and get them to take the measurements after they have discussed with you your exact requirements.

I wish it were possible. In my situation, i am pretty much stuck getting all of my kilts over the internet.

Brice

[Jock Scot]

I wish it were possible. In my situation, i am pretty much stuck getting all of my kilts over the internet.

Brice

Alright,I am not a kilt maker, but the one thing to remember, is that kilt makers have subtle differences in how they take the measurements. So when you have decided on the kilt maker, ask and ask again AND AGAIN if you are not sure how THEY want the measurements taken and then check and then, check again that you have it right as far as YOUR chosen kilt maker is concerned. Good luck and of course we will want to see pictures!

[bricelythgoe]

Alright,I am not a kilt maker, but the one thing to remember, is that kilt makers have subtle differences in how they take the measurements. So when you have decided on the kilt maker, ask and ask again AND AGAIN if you are not sure how THEY want the measurements taken and then check and then, check again that you have it right as far as YOUR chosen kilt maker is concerned. Good luck and of course we will want to see pictures!

You bet! I am in contact with him right now. He is a member of the forum. I will let you know how it goes.

[ForresterModern]

In my (extremely limited) experience I have seen the left first pleat flip under a couple different circumstances. First, if the hip measurement is marginally tight it will pull the apron from the right side too much and flip that first left pleat. Second, if you tighten the lower right strap (the hip strap) too tight it will flip the first left pleat in the same fashion. Third, if the left edge of your front apron gets off center and slides toward the right too much, or if the front apron is too narrow making the first left pleat positioned in front of your left hip instead of slightly "around the corner" it might cause the first left pleat to flip.

I am sure other more experienced kilt wearers and kiltmakers will be able to explain it better but this is what I have noticed with my kilts. I have two kilts which were a bit too big when I got them, and rather than have them altered significantly (as my weight does tend to fluctuate) I had the buckles/straps moved in an inch and a half or so, and honestly they are the only two kilts that absolutely never flip a pleat, no matter how I tighten them. I hypothesize that is becasue the apron is wider than normal for my actual waist size due to the bigger original waist size build, making both sides of the aprons wrap further around BOTH sides of my hips and seemingly binding down the first pleat on both sides and keeping them from flipping.

I tighten my straps till the waist feels comfortable, then the hip snug with the first pleat threatening to flip, then I back it off an inch or so on the hip strap. Seems to work every time.

[ChattanCat]

The hip measurement should be loose, of course contact your kiltmaker.

Kilt flip or flare may also be caused by large thighs. For some, the flip/flare cannot be avoided.

[bricelythgoe]

The hip measurement should be loose, of course contact your kiltmaker.

Kilt flip or flare may also be caused by large thighs. For some, the flip/flare cannot be avoided.

That could be it. I am going to order a wider hip measurement. But, I might just be too fat in thighs I guess.

Brice

[turpin]

You would want it reasonably loose. It's a measurement usually taken over worn clothing.

That must be my problem. I alway measure over brand new clothing.

Another reason that first pleat can flip is if the apron is not properly shaped. The over aprons on Stillwater wool kilts, for example (at least the three I have) are A-shaped on the right side but the crease in the first pleat follows the tartan line on the left side. On my SWK Saffron I actually re-shaped the pleat with an iron and it helpd reduce the pleat flipping. I havea PV kilt in maple leaf tartan from another kiltmaker with the same problem, and it also has a straight left side on the apron, so it's not necessarilyan issue of being too tight as much as aporn construction.