Under apron pleat on the X-Kilt

**nkosuohene** · 3rd December 21, 01:27 PM

I am finally started on my X-kilt and have a question. The Appendix 1 diagram shows, from the right hand side, an over-apron edge hem allowance; the over apron of 10"; then the under apron pleat 12" the the inner fold etc. Steve's excellent (and often entertaining) instructions direct me to measure the over apron, (which in my case turns out to be 8" instead of 10") but do not explain where the 12" under apron pleat comes in. Is the 12" is just a random measurement? What am I missing here? I don't want to start sewing in pleats until I know I am not going to regret it.

**Steve Ashton** · 3rd December 21, 01:45 PM

I'm not exactly sure which diagram you are referring to but I believe that the 12 inches you are referring to is the deep and/or reverse pleats. Is it possible that the 12" is folded into a pleat so its depth is 6" after folding.

**nkosuohene** · 3rd December 21, 02:24 PM

Let me see if I can attach the diagram
Screen Shot 2021-12-03 at 3.20.31 PM.png

**Steve Ashton** · 3rd December 21, 07:23 PM

The line marked "stitch this all the way to the waistband" is folded over to the edge of the first pleat.

This creates the underfold of the first pleat (the 3" labeled on the diagram) plus the 12" folded in half for a 6" deep pleat.

**nkosuohene** · 4th December 21, 05:55 AM

Ah ha. Yes. Of course. Thank you, Steve. Now I get it. And of course now it looks so simple I wonder why I didn't get right away. This is one of the reasons why I have enjoyed sewing since I took it up a couple winters ago. It is much like boat building, which I also enjoy. Very multi dimensional with each component interacting with all others.

Okay, I have a coffee at my side to start the day. After breakfast, I will be back at the sewing machine. Again, thank you very much for your clear and prompt reply.

**Father Bill** · 4th December 21, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by nkosuohene

*snip* It is much like boat building, which I also enjoy. Very multi dimensional with each component interacting with all others.*snip*

Ha! Don't get Steve started on that!

**nkosuohene** · 4th December 21, 09:46 AM

That? as in boat building?

Pray tell, why not?

**Father Bill** · 4th December 21, 10:40 AM

Well, we'll see if it happens.

**Steve Ashton** · 4th December 21, 11:21 AM

Because Father Bill is pulling your chain. In a former life I was a Naval Architect/Marine Engineer. I worked in the boating industry, owned my own yacht company, and have designed and built many boats from fiberglass and rotomolded sea Kayaks, to trailerable lapstrake wooden rowing and sail boats, up to 63 ft. world class, single handed sailing cruisers.

I used to live on a 42' Rhodes Bounty II and single handed from Florida to Hawaii and back including 3 days in a hurricane off the coast of Honduras.

**nkosuohene** · 4th December 21, 11:37 AM

Originally Posted by Steve Ashton

Because Father Bill is pulling your chain. In a former life I was a Naval Architect/Marine Engineer. I worked in the boating industry, owned my own yacht company, and have designed and built many boats from fiberglass and rotomolded sea Kayaks, to trailerable lapstrake wooden rowing and sail boats, up to 63 ft. world class, single handed sailing cruisers.

I used to live on a 42' Rhodes Bounty II and single handed from Florida to Hawaii and back including 3 days in a hurricane off the coast of Honduras.

This all very good to know. When I run into a problem on my next boat build, I will know who to turn to. I am hoping that will be next winter if I can find a heated workshop. Clearly your knowledge and experience far exceeds mine, Steve. I only have two builds under my belt - my current Wharram designed 24 foot cat and a prevoius cat, also a Wharram design. Currently I am infatuated with a Kohler design, a 20 foot cat.